I made up two cribbage boards. Why peg yourself to one franchise when you can love both.
The SW one’s centre image is obviously not mine. And I think the original creator is on this forum.
To do the thick bottoms, I just cut a single piece in 1/8 BB ply then stacked all the pieces in needed and pinned. Then used a pattern bit to cut out. A little faster then the laser, and I can do 1/2 ply that way.
Only regret was the magnets were a tad to small.
Either things learned: I suck at painting, should of used solid instead of ply for some of it, really want the passthrough working as it is a tad over bed size. Not having to drill 120 x 6 holes on a drill press rocks.
But yes I made the holes 1/16" plus .2mm . Then for the pegs I found some finishing nails that the shank fit snug into the hole. I used a regular drill to pre drill some 1/4" dowels and then half hammered in the nails and cut them off with shears.
Reason I ask is that I was thinking of using my CNC router to do the hole drilling for a similar project, and then the GF to do the artwork. was wondering about how the char from the holes transfers to the pegs, and how long it takes to burn one hole vs. the router.
The outer ring is 13" or so for reference. I did that piece seperate. I think run time was 7-10 minutes, definetly under 15(just the outer area). So that is 120 or so holes x 3 plus scores and outer cuts.
I only thing I had to make sure was to make sure I blew out the holes. The peg top is only 1/8" BB ply, so I could go a reasonable speed and power(140sp/98pwr). It then glued it to a thicker bottom and used a flush trimmer to finish. I think if you went with a thicker top you would either need to run slower and get longer run times and char. Or you end up having to engrave the holes to hollow out, and that would suck for run time. Which case the CNC would win the time race.
Char wasn’t to much an issue or at all. I pre painted and painters taped the piece before lasering. Standard acrylic paint.
