I only have so much flat space. I also am a stacker too.
My intent there was to highlight that there is a more abstract issue with political thinking regarding regulating technology in general. 3D-printed guns are just one such technology. Regulators keep coming up with niche-specific variants of the same unworkable solution, an unworkable solution that has destructive side effects. Asking technologists to make computers that only run âgoodâ programs, 3D printers that only print âgoodâ models, etc. is not a good approach. I did not intend any propagandistic distraction implied by labeling that âwhataboutism.â
I think you are likely correct. Things may be changing, though. Looking for statistics about crime involving âghost guns,â it looks like they are just the tiniest portion. It may be increasing, with organized crime having particular interest. As noted, I donât think this kind of regulation is going to stop crime organizations from 3D printing guns. I suspect we are likely to get all of the negative side effects with very little of the desired benefit.
If the goal is to reduce violent/gun crime, I suspect there is lower-hanging fruit.
I am also not an expert on 3D printed guns, specifically.
I didnât really think you were. It just seemed to conflate two unrelated and important ideas, both of which have merit.
The home manufacture of firearms tends to be like a mosquito in a bee hive. The same knee jerk attempt to âdo somethingâ thatâs behind the 3D printing regulations is also starting to be heard with CNC milling. The price of a CNC milling machine that is capable of machining the parts out of steel to make a pistol is around $2500 and files are available on the Internet. The resulting pistol is much more capable than anything printed out of plastic. There are even mills that are marketed directly to that marketplace.
Buying a cheap $100 gun on the street, from a pawn shop or by stealing one is still way easier and cheaper than printing one. Even if the serial number hasnât been ground off, tracing it just leads back to wherever it was stolen from, not the criminal who used it. You donât need a $500 3D printer and $150 of filament to get a gun.
Legislation in this area is not much different than the banning of foreign made drones & parts. A lot of crackdown theater.
As a DJI owner with a damaged gimbal this hits home. I canât get it repaired and itâs infuriating.
This.
It looks like NY is progressing with a bill that will potentially hamstring CNC machines as well as 3D printers.
https://blog.adafruit.com/2026/02/03/new-york-wants-to-ctrlaltdelete-your-3d-printer/
Any suggestions on getting this nozzle free? I assume the filament worked its way between the head and nozzle (underneath the silicon). I went to remove it and it is stuck firmly.
Hereâs what Gemini thinks.
Based on the image provided, this is a classic âblob of deathâ on a Bambu Lab hotend (likely a P1 or X1 series). The filament has leaked (possibly from a nozzle swap that wasnât seated perfectly or a failure during printing) and encased the hotend assembly in solid plastic.
Because the plastic has solidified around the components, you cannot simply pull it off coldâdoing so will rip the delicate thermistor and heater wires, forcing you to replace the entire hotend assembly.
Here is the safe procedure to remove it:
1. Heat is Mandatory
You must soften the plastic to remove it.
* Turn on the printer and navigate to the temperature controls.
* Set the nozzle temperature to the printing temperature of the stuck filament (e.g., 250°C for PETG/ABS or 220°C for PLA).
* Wait for about 5â10 minutes to let the heat soak into the blob.
2. Gentle Removal
Once the blob is soft:
* Use a pair of pliers or tweezers to gently pull the bulk of the plastic away from the nozzle.
* Be extremely careful around the wires entering the heat block (the metal block where the nozzle is). The thermistor (temperature sensor) and ceramic heater wires are very fragile. If the plastic pulls on these wires, they will snap.
* Do not force it. If a chunk isnât moving, let it heat longer or use a heat gun (on a low setting) to carefully soften the exterior if the internal heater isnât enough.
3. Cleaning the Assembly
* Once the main blob is gone, use a brass wire brush to scrub the nozzle and heater block while it is still hot.
* Pay attention to the metal clip that holds the hotend in place. If plastic is stuck in the clip mechanism, you wonât be able to unlatch the hotend to replace it.
4. Verification
* After cleaning, inspect the wires. If the temperature reading is unstable or reads â0â / error, the thermistor was likely damaged during the leak or removal. In that case, you will need to buy a replacement hotend assembly.
Would you like tips on how to prevent this leaking fro
m happening again?
While it was incorrect on a lot of things, it was correct that I simply needed to heat the nozzle to 220, then I was able to simple take it off with my hands. I used heat protected gloves, but the part handled was not even warm, just the end of the nozzle where it was stuck.
