Acrylic Suncatcher

My web site, though seriously in need of updating, still shows on the edition page, a fan we made to commemorate Nelson.
http://www.fanmaker.co.uk/collectfan.html
Sorry it’s so indistinct, but if I can find a better photo in the next 24 hours, I’ll post it.
(Just about to finish packing for my latest trip over to USA from UK !)

2 Likes

Cool… yeah I’d love to see a bigger/better image… looks good so far!

@johnbrooker I have just checked out your website and honestly I’m impressed (was going to say I was a fan, but that would too cheap). And can you heard sheep over London Bridge? This isn’t so much a question as a request!

I can’t believe the incredible diversity of people and backgrounds on this forum.

And hope you have a happy trip! :sheep::sheep::sheep::sheep::bridge_at_night::sheep::sheep::sheep::sheep:

I don’t think it would affect the transparency. There are many examples of carved acrylic with lights behind them

The proofgrade veneer is awful thick (for veneer) and the adhesive backing will speed things up considerably. Also, no additional adhesives to worry about. Plus, you could use draft board in the center to save a little. Proofgrade plywood is just veneer on mdf/draft board.

1 Like

So pretty!

1 Like

And what do you think engrave is for. If you want textured acrylic you can have any texture you want

and @pam4arts

Engraving usually makes the acrylic less transparent… which is why we use this method for creating back-lit signs. I want the light to shine thru, thus no engraving. Unless you know or are speaking of another way?

True… did not think of that

Im still waiting for my GF to arrive. I have been wanting to do this sort of thing. Glad to see that it can be done and exactally the way I was thinking it would be. Thanks

1 Like

Nice to see your process. Thank you! I understand better now how it fits together. I don’t know my joinery terms well but is that called a lap joint?

Either way, cool to see. I did some real leaded glass classes back in my younger days.

For your lap engraving how do you determine the correct depth? multiple passes? Does it take a long time to “print”?

1 Like

After engraving, flood it with acetone and it will smooth out the etch so it’s transparent but will still maintain its 3D depth. If the engrave has variable depth I would expect you would get something similar to stained glass rippling in the light streaming through.

3 Likes

I’m not too keen on my terms either… I know if you cut out a square section on the edge is a rabbet, but since I’m going around the hold it could be called something else. A lap joint is similar but I think the difference is the amount or width of said are being carved out and how they are attached.

As for the depth, yes, it was trial and error over a couple passes. It took roughly 3.5 hours for the engraving and cutting of the plywood.

1 Like

I actually have not done any 3D engraving yet with my GF… so yeah, I could see how that would work.

I have tried to make a depth map as I wanted to try my hand at it, but my map didn’t have all the detail I wanted. It was a model of carbonate Han I found online, but I guess that model had more details in the texture map rather than the model.

So I will need to find textured models to try to make my own for future builds.

1 Like

Hopefully it will come soon!

I’ve been making so many things on my GF since it arrived… definitely worth the wait.

jetzel
Owner

    March 5

and @pam4arts

Engraving usually makes the acrylic less transparent… which is why we use this method for creating back-lit signs. I want the light to shine thru, thus no engraving. Unless you know or are speaking of another way?

What is this?