That bothered me a lot, too…to leave that out. I’m pretty OCD, too…but the only reason I left it out was because the top of Mom’s…is above the cut line and I would have had to make a ‘bridge’ for the apostrophe, since it can’t be suspended in mid air. Considering the font I used, I thought it would look either really ugly or make a letter unreadable…or both. Tough decision, actually.
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Awesome design. Really looks great!
Can you do me a favor and just confirm that that’s the base you got with the AC adapter? It doesn’t show the adapter pictured and it’s doesn’t seem to be mentioned. And it says “Power source type: battery-powered”
Only reason I ask is I’ve been looking for a cheap base like this that’s AC. So if this is the one that’d be great.
Thanks!!!
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In rereading my post, I realize that my description may not be completely accurate. It comes with a USB cable only…I had to round up one of the things that accepts USB to AC…but other than that, it IS capable of being plugged in to AC. Sorry, if I mislead or confused. This is the base that I actually leave on sometimes in my Laser Pantry, because it looks cool and with LEDS, doesn’t waste a lot of power. Hope that’s helpful.
PS…I usually only order PRIME, but these bases are hard to find.
Totally helpful! Thanks!
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I love that reason. A perfect encapsulation of the trade offs in design.
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it’s PLG headed not PIG headed 
Lowercase L.
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Ooops
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It’s a very significant difference as it’s hard to stalk, I mean “find”, him under PIG headed. (Or so I’ve heard anyway…)
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exactly 
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I had always assumed that as well, probably because my Mom regularly accused me of being ‘pigheaded’.
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Thanks for sharing the link! I’ve been too lazy to wire up my own lighting base, and at $11 these are far superior that what I would make. I ordered two of these to play with. Overall quite nice, but the remote control & proximity switch logic is… puzzling.
Ran a quick test to see if my base measurements were right:
Yep, base insert was fine.
Everything else about this test belongs in the “never do this” category 
-- I plopped in a jpg without cleaning it up, forgot to lay down paper or tape under the acrylic (note the flashback round the edges), and simply accepted the suggested settings even though I have a PRU and know better. All these issues were mine – the GF did exactly what I told it to.
The other lesson learned is that having a lot of engraving “up the stack” produces shadows along the top. The Enterprise at the top shows this ‘gotcha.’ The nice thing is that I can pitch this piece, make a better one, and plop it in. 
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Where did you find the patent for the Enterprise? (That is totally cool!) 
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I never heard of doing this before. How come I didn’t get any flashback on the edges of mine?[quote=“dwardio, post:32, topic:8870”]
produces shadows along the top
[/quote]
Yes…that shows on mine, too. I’ve already pitched one and made a better one…and on it goes.
Love your light. Edge lit acrylic is just the coolest! 
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Googled “enterprise patent drawings”. They all seem to be lossy jpegs and need cleaning, but there are some beautiful drawings in the patent filings. Good hunting!
Good question. My PRU had always required something under even PG acrylic to prevent flashback. Hoping my ForeverForge won’t.
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A true geek (I ain’t proud!) has the official Starfleet Technical Manual from which to make hi-res scans. 
Okay… I haven’t looked at this book in decades, so I don’t remember which schematics it has in it. But it’s a great book regardless.
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I haven’t put anything under my acrylic and haven’t experienced any flashback (except right at the start/end point, which I don’t think is flashback, but simply extra energy applied at that one tiny little spot). I’ve only seen those little “dits” happen on PRUs. Could be coincidence… just my own personal observations so far.
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Some of the later PRUs might have had Pro model tubes in them…I think they tend to run hotter than normal.
(Try dialing the power back a little - it cuts down on the flashback.) 
I noticed the beam seems to cause worse flashback when there is air to feed the flame - so if you are cutting really close to an open edge, or crossing another cut, the charring is worse. Putting a sheet of something down, even paper, blocks the air flow into those little cells in the grid from outside of the actual cell that is being cut, so less fire happens.
Least that’s what i think is going on …easy enough to compensate for it, even with a PRU. I don’t get any flashback now.
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Indeed. I was in a hurry and forgot to dial it down. My PRU seems “hotter” than some of the others, but still don’t know if it has the pro tube.
I also plan to cut a bunch of the acrylic standoffs for the bed that ??? came up with earlier this year.
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I tried those and actually found that it made things worse - was letting in more air instead of less, but I figured I was just doing something wrong with the focal point and didn’t really have time to explore it completely. (You can just prop it up on a few leftover bits and get the same effect.)
Anyway, if you try it, LMK what you discover. 
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