Another lamp from trial to full size


#1

This is the lamp shade that uses the locking mechanism for assembly. After building the lamp, it became obvious why it can’t be glued together. Fully assembled, you would not be able to attach to a pendant, nor change bulbs. I will say, once I built the mockup, I had to go full scale.

Wood looks good.

Frosted acrylic looks great. The opportunities are boundless. I can can see using colored acrylic or various types of wood.


#2

You could build in a turn locking plate up top to attach the rest of the pendant to. That would get rid of the troubles in changing bulbs. However with LED bulbs these days you might never have to…

Looks great!


#3

Oh very nice! Love the shape! :grinning:


#4

Stunning! I have two hanging fixtures I’ve never liked and something along these lines would be great. Thanks for sharing.


#5

It’s very pretty, I love the smooth, clean lines!


#6

The organic shape is captivating, especially combined with the frosted acrylic. Thanks for shedding some light on lamp design!


#7

I like this a lot. I have a floor standing lamp. I wonder your design could be adapted to replace the shade that was broken when it fell over.

I’d love any design help after I get my laser.


#8

REALLY great stuff!
Wood one reminds me of the lamp my Grandparents had in the 1970’s.


#9

I really like the frosted acrylic with the dark round rim at the bottom. That looks great!


#10

I’m still waiting to see if that will hold true. I remember similar exertions were made about the CFL bulbs when they first came out years ago. Then, they started having all kinds of problems and not lasting near like what people said they would.


#11

love it! Reminds me of a hot air balloon! Would be fun to attach a gondola to the bottom!


#12

The current design has a 1.4" hole that fits standard ring lamp sockets. Older style lamps would require that the hole be resized.

Edit.
I tried using the smaller wooden mock-up on my table lamps. It wouldn’t work with the ones that had the switch on the sockets, the fins hit the switch before being seated. Two or more fins would need to be modified to allow it to seat all the way. The table lamp that has the switch on the power cord worked just fine.


#13

I see a flower when I look at it. So I was thinking about hanging an acrylic rod with an orb to simulate the pistil.


#14

That is excellent. Will you make the SVG files available?


#15

Here is what it looks like on one of my table lamps.

I’m trying to find the source for the svg.


#16

Yeah CFL wear when actually used (ie turned on and off) was quite a bit less than the hours on the box. In fact, a light that is turned on and off frequently for short periods were often quite a bit less than tungsten.

With the LEDs so far so good for me. Haven’t had one go out yet and I have some that are four years old. And if you count smaller LEDs like flashlights and under counter strips they’ve been working well for a decade.

I think they’re supposed to get dimmer over time, but not so that I’ve noticed so far.


#17

A well-made LED that doesn’t have manufacturing defects and isn’t run at a current higher than it’s rated for and doesn’t get overheated should last indefinitely, although eventually some of the supporting electronics (capacitors and such) will fail.


#18

Yeah, I hope LEDs hold up to what they’re supposedly capable. I’m glad to see more consistency in color and brightness in recent time than a few years ago.

From what I understand, the balast or power source is often to blame when an “LED” goes out. It is usually not the LED that fails, but just the method of powering it. I love how little energy they use!


#19

I’ve heard that the early LED light bulbs had heat dissipation issues and it was impacting life. But as they worked out solutions the bulbs are at or approaching our expectations for them. None of the ones I’ve installed have enough time on them to know anything besides so far so good.

Last month I put two in a kitchen light fixture. As I’m comparing bulbs at Home Depot I notice the 60W equivalent is two dollars cheaper than the 40W equivalent. Who am I to argue with their pricing model?


#20

Well, you gave me an idea. And after some time I have come up with a design that will allow for thinner pendant lights while still allowing for the changing of light bulbs. If I ever need to.

The hole of the main ring is just big enough for a standard light bulb (A19). The locking ring’s inner diameter fits the pendant lights that use screw rings for shades (1.4").

The little tabs are actually press fit. I added tiny nubs that locks them into the other piece. You can still glue them if you want an even more secure fit.

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