WOW @rbtdanforth, that is truly impressive
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That is what is easily available on the web and It is probably from a 3D scan of a carving. I did not even download that one but it is a good example of why one needs to think in a more complex manner than a list of the 255 shades of gray to black to paste on each object.
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Thanks for sharing the path. Was just getting ready to go looking for it when I found your reply to the original post.
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Great tip. I’ve installed this on my copy of InkScape and it works great. Thanks!
You can turn off any item (in Inkscape you go to objects and poke it in the eye so the eye shuts) and that will not be seen in the GFUI
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Affinity Designer on Windows Users
Here are both the Trubetskoy and Wong swatch variants in .csv format. Unfortunately the .afpallet files only appear to work on Mac. Since I use these two swatch sets all the time, I wanted to set the up for my wife on her Windows machine as well.
Trubtskoy is nice when you have a file full of operations (up to 22) you want to separate. But, the Wong version is nice when you only need 9 colors or less. 
Affinity Designer, Glowforge Wong + Trubetskoy.zip (1.9 KB)
- Extract the files and copy them to
C:\Program Files\Affinity\Designer\Resources\Pantone. - Reopen Affinity Designer to see them in the Swatches.
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Thanks! I don’t know how to use colors to control the order of things yet but I want to learn. I’ll file this away for future reference.
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Every time I try to download and save the one for Mac (AI) I get a message that says can not convert post script? UGH I"m so confused, I had it on my old computer but can’t figure it out on the new on. when I look at the download it says “glowforge.ai.ps” sorry folks I’m so frustrated and feel so stupid right now
Which of the above ai palettes are you trying to download? Not sure where the PS is getting added to the download.
I’m not sure I just bought a 2019 Mac book pro and redownloaded the adobe cloud suite so it’s definitely the most current version. It comes up on the stream as .ai and as soon as I click on it the .ps message pops up
sorry the one in the youtube video
glow forge.ai from Apr '17
So is it actually downloaded locally? If so, can you change the name of the file and strip off the “ps”. Then move it to the correct directory.
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I got it!!No idea how but it worked!! thanks for reaching out!!!
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Thank you for this!!!
I’m no computer savvy at all, but somehow (don’t ask me how, I don’t think I could do it again, LOL) I figured how to paste the file to the correct folder and it worked!!! This is gonna be life changing!
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Order of Operations
Hello, I just got my GF yesterday, and thanks for doing all this work. As I understand it, the colors you have created here are for the order of operations on how GF will cut certain colors first, second, third, … etc.
Height Depth
I’m curious to know if certain colors in RGB or Greyscale have different height depths also? When GF makes a score, cut, or engrave such as what @rbtdanforth was talking about with 3D greyscale height depths. Does the greyscale gradients from 100% opaque to 0% opaque or 255 opaque to 0 opaque and anywhere in between determine height depth? Color = Order of Operations, Greyscale = Height depth?
I noticed you had a PLYWOOD depth template for Laser cutting materiale template by Noloxs that shows different percentages for engraving. Does height depth matter in scoring and cutting also?
I guess I would have to do some testing also on different Proofgrade materials also to see the differences with the PLYWOOD depth template, but wanted to know the above about what determines order of operations and height depth.
Thank you guys for all your hard work and those who have contributed to this thread.
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The only time grayscale becomes relevant in depth of cut is with a variable engrave. You still set the power to what you want and the computer will use that number as 100% which it will use as black and there are 255 shades of gray that the computer will use to calculate the amount of power to apply.
Pure White is special as that shade will be ignored so the image that is always rectangular will not have the laser head uselessly going back and forth, doing nothing.
Using color in that part of the work just creates problems as the solid color of equal intensities reads quite differently as it tries to estimate how it looks to the eye. So pure blue will be darker than the same intensity in yellow.
In Gimp or similar image editor there will be a command to desaturate colors to zero and that will make it easier to see the amount of cutting. It is a good idea to play with brightness and contrast so some areas will be completely black and others nearly white.
Getting the best result will be when the darkest area is black but distinguishable from the area that was just a bit darker. As you increase contrast the areas will pile up at the top and bottom losing information and you want to stop just before that happens.
Obviously the more power you call out the greater the range from full power to zero power and the more distinct the relief engrave will be, therefore you will want to increase speed rather than reduce power if the effect is too strong. The higher LPI will usually also produce a better effect.
This is a totally different thing from all other types of lasering. Every image will have its own layer in the GFUI so its color is irrelevant and I believe they will always be at the top when loaded, Only vectors will load according to color and if you are seeking a faithful representation of an image you will want to use dots and not vary power as vary power is about how deep the cut is rather than how dark it is,
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@rbtdanforth thanks for the speedy reply and the differentiation between color and greyscale.
I’m new here and still trying to understand terminology. What is LPI? Is GFUI = Glowforge User Interface = the Glowforge App online?
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Yes
Lines Per Inch
There is a lot of discussions and opinions. Certainly no matter what the speed doubling the number of lines will double the time taken and for some folks, the time it takes to do the job is the primary consideration. For myself, the time taken is so short compared to something like a 3D printer, I give the extra time very little consideration compared to even a slight improvement in the result.
The new “High Speed” improvements are particularly relevant to relief carving as to get the better results of 1355 LPI (the highest available) you need a speed high enough not to burn through the material. The extra time getting up to speed and slowing down uses more time than slower speeds plus all the extra lines take a lot longer as well but with 1000 speed and full power the maximum LPI without burning through is far less.
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Blockquote
@rbtdanforth
The only time grayscale becomes relevant in depth of cut is with a variable engrave. You still set the power to what you want and the computer will use that number as 100% which it will use as black and there are 255 shades of gray that the computer will use to calculate the amount of power to apply.
Have you tested grayscale variable engravings on different surfaces?
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In that it is just like other laserings. Anything a laser will cut , it will engrave to depth. Aluminum, rocks, tile, etc. cannot be cut and so cannot be depth engraved. Acrylic and woods of about any sort that can be cut can also be relief carved though the settings will vary a lot depending on what it takes to cut it and that is an array of rabbit holes that each case needs work and research for those specifics, but very rewarding.
A few examples…
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