I haven’t found it anywhere with my searches.
Do we know what the exact feed table height should be for material to be perfectly level while using the pass-through slot? I’m trying to plan it’s location a little better.
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I’m guessing you mean how much above the table on which the Glowforge sits is the feed through slot. I’ve a pretty good memory and have read every single post. 95% sure it has not been discussed. Only thing we know related to that is that the tray inside the Glowforge is approximately the same height as the slot. (and of course need to adjust for if the filter unit is in place)
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Yep that’s what mean. With the filter would also be good to know for others but I decided that the filter wasn’t necessary for my purposes.
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Yes, but I’d have to bug our CTO to find out, and I don’t do that unless something’s on fire. Literally. He’s building Glowforges.
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No problem. Don’t worry about it.
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Man, if I lived close I would show up everyday for free to help assemble! That’s how bad I want that thing.
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Say, @dan would it be possible to get the answer to @soldiercoleman 's original question, now that we’ve all been waiting so patiently? (Mostly, LOL)
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Unfortunately no and for the same reason. I can measure from the ground to the bottom of the slot, but I can’t tell you if you’d be better off a few hundredths higher or lower, that’s his department.
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A ballpark figure would have been nice, and I’m pretty sure we both meant from the bottom of the GF, but thanks anyway.
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That’s what I meant - from resting surface to slot. @bailey or I can try to get a ballpark measurement if that’s helpful, but not the precise number you asked for earlier.
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Sorry @dan I’m guilty of not reading the original post as closely as I should have. When it is convenient, +/- 1/8" , would be super, you see my GF will have “wings” even though it won’t fly.
I will investigate.
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Any updates on this?
We are just building a bench for the GF to live on and as we have a Pro (with filter) it would be really useful to have.
Doesn’t have to be super precise. At the moment we’re going on about 9"but if this is too low it could be a real bummer.
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There are many instances where tolerance needs to be adjustable to allow precise alignment.
An example solution that comes to mind is slotted fastener holes. Another might be leveling feet.
As opposed to trying to nail an exact parameter in a fixed assembly, I would incorporate adjustability in the support design to allow me to accommodate whatever is needed.
Figure +/- an inch or more of adjustment and an exact parameter is not needed.
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I agree, him indoors though. He sees it as a little inelegant. he just wants everything to slot into place perfectly ( and for preference, in seconds). In essence (and his words) " Why can’t I just have the bloody DIMENSIONS?"
He gets a bit grumpy when he has to work Sundays.
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Well, I understand his point, but you only have to adjust it once…
Many times I have gone to the trouble of custom fabricating something, later to realize a degree of adjustability would have made it easier, better or more versatile.
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Him indoors here.
She’s let me type!
Good point, well made. I do have a bit of a problem with adjustable, in as much as anything adjustable, can fall out of adjustment. Sometimes (often), with out you noticing.
I’ll take it into consideration though, as I think in this instance it would be an easy one to spot. BTW. Love your slatted walls (and as one who spends a lot of time looking over her shoulder, your posts).
Can’t quite see why this dimension hasn’t been made available though. It would be useful.
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I think in a case like this , adjustable is going to be a necessity because you’re not going to want exactly the same height every time. Not much adjustment, but even proofgrade materials will not all be flat and rigid. (I am thinking by analogy to infeed and outfeed for a table saw or a planer, where a few hundredths can make a noticeable difference. And yes, I know it’s not an exact analogy.)
My guess would be some kind of shims that could get you the last little bit.
I couldn’t agree with you more! I preach this to young engineers all the time. When making something that will interact with something you don’t have, just adding threaded rod feet, slotted holes, or even using shims can save you so many hours of work later.
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