Glowforge Pro Overheating

It was a 7 minute cut. Paused once for about 2 minutes with about 2 minutes remaining and then finished the rest without having to stop again.

During our summer, I keep my home in the high 70’s and have never had it pause or overheat.

Are you sure the exhaust fan is running? It’s really loud when it fires up as you probably know.

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It should be able to handle that easily, especially with a Pro model. Support is probably going to need to look at your logs to see if they can spot anything out of whack. (But checking the fan is also a good idea.)

Yes, I’m sure it’s running and we have a compact filter attached to it.

That’s what I thought to. We never had issues with it pausing when we first started using it but now it does it frequently.

Ahhhh! Is it starting to fill up a little more with smoke too? (Not being drawn out as well by the filter fan?) If you’re using a Compact Filter with draftboard that is a quick trip to filling it up and needing a new filter.


Ah. My understanding is that it shouldn’t be running with the CF attached - that’s why there’s a setting for it in the UI.

However, knowing you have a filter, that definitely points towards an airflow issue. Have you checked to see if it’s full?


Draftboard is a filter killer unless you have a washable prefilter . I had thought my Blu-Dri was filling up what was as it turned out a prefilter and ran a vacuum cleaner over it. Your situation may vary but particularly draftboard kicks out a lot of larger particles.

Even grocery stores carry the thin open cell foam for room air conditioners that does not block air much but takes out the larger particles and the worst fillers of the expensive filters.

Yes we actually just got a new filter a few weeks ago.

Yeah that’s what we’re realizing. I think we’re going to look for an alternative 1/4" material that we can use instead of the thick draftboard. We just need something that thickness that can be painted.

The so called Revolution plywood is much less expensive, a hair thinner (5mm). and actually wood. It is worse than such woods as maple or acrylic but way better than compressed sawdust. Oak plywood is very dirty, but not that dirty, and extremely strong. Baltic Birch is better in everything than Revolution but a lot more expensive,

Best for every case I think is that washable prefilter. The most fine particles and chemical stink are the tiniest part of the mass of smoke, and they will last well if that was all they saw.


My opinion is that the bonding material (glue/resin) in manufactured materials is the biggest concern. Most natural products (pine would be a definite exception) don’t have “ingredients” that produce sticky residue when vaporized.

There might be manufactured products that work, but a suitable hardwood is probably going to be easier to find.


Virtually all organic materials leave a sticky residue when vaporized :nauseated_face: the bigger question is what does not get vaporized. In the case of Oak, the fibers the give it strength do not burn as well and become part of the smoke. The first time I cleaned my exhaust system I had been cutting a lot of oak plywood and it looked like black cotton balls that the fibers were obvious.

More recently I was engraving a bunch of butternut and the fibers did not even travel far but paved everywhere in front of the engraving. In the case of MDF, I think that the binder is burned but chunks of less burned nuggets travel in the smoke making much of the volume those nuggets and it is that which blocks up the filters and be they fibers or nuggets by filling the prefilter do not clog the pores of the HEPA filter.

I stand corrected. I was basing it on being told multiple times you should never burn pine in a fireplace because it leaves “tar” up the chimney that can catch fire.

That’s probably a good idea if you’re going to be using the filter.

This graphic is from the FAQ on, and uses 11 minute cuts as the control:


You can see the lowest is medium ply, since it uses a draftboard core. Sometime back, the thick plywood switched to some other type of core.

But, 175 eleven minute cuts in medium ply equates to ~32 hours of use before the filter is full. I can only imagine that the thick draftboard would be even quicker to fill it.


Hey, that’s a nice little chart…hadn’t seen that yet! :grinning::+1:

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Thanks for the further explanation. I was trying to figure out the huge discrepancy between medium and thick PG plywood!

Back in the days when I had a fireplace I had fatwood pine that was very full of resin and oak that was harder to light but burned hotter and longer. I would not try to laser Fatwood (longleaf) pine but getting a hot fire going quickly in the fireplace it worked well and being 2/3 oak that went on for hours after the other was gone, and did not have a problem.

I see you already emailed us about this and we’re working on it there, so I’m going to close this topic.