Has anyone had any issues with wood glue not holding 2 pieces of Maple Plywood (PG) together? I glued 2 pieces together last night and clamped them down. This morning, they just came apart with minimal effort. I can’t think of the glue brand but it was recommended at the Rockler store and hasn’t failed me yet.
Suggestions? Old glue? Different brand?
PG has a poly like spray on coating over the Maple veneers. Wood glue will not soak into the grain properly. Can’t suggest a good alternative, just explaining why it may have adhered poorly.
Might want to sand it/rough it up first if it is finished. Mine becomes stronger than the wood itself when I scratch it thoroughly with a rough grit. (60 or so)
I think some of the early stuff I made is starting to fall apart for the same reason. Might be a sign from above to do some experiments.
Maybe try something like E6000. It’s better suited for non-porous surfaces than wood glue. But if you can sand the edges you’re gluing without making a mess, I agree with @Jules
These are fantastic for just marking up the areas you need to scratch…buy the coarse grit bands.
3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive Clear, Net Wt 12.23 oz - 86235 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDP96WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dK9.CbXCDV88F
The 3M 77 spray also works.
I still really wish the non-draftboard PG stuff was available without a finish.
Try CA glue.
Even if you don’t sand through the finish, the rough grit Jules suggested will give any adhesive you use more tooth.
@Jules, I used one of those extensively in my jewelry work.
In tight places using the tapered tip, the grit would load up or wear quickly, but you just roll that belt around for a fresh surface and keep going.
Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll look at scruffing them up some.
May want to try Gorilla super glue gel.
I just got back from Home Depot. Didn’t see a gel. Picked up the Gorilla wood though. Needed some anyway so why not. I’ll look for that too.
Is that the one, get it slightly wet and then apply? Be careful of expansion.
I use Gorilla wood glue all the time, no water needed. use a scrapper stick to get rid of excess in corners. Dries very clear.
examples of my favorite projects: Wood used Basswood, Birch & Cherry, I know is not maple but…
So far I’m not having any better luck with the gorilla glue either. It is holding but not as good as as I would expect. And that is after I scuffed it up some.
I’ve got some stuff coming from amazon tomorrow so I’ll report back in this weekend.
Just a FYI… Most adhesives have two numbers listed in the directions. The first is the length of time that you need to clamp the material before a hold is reached. The second is the length of time before obtaining a full strength bond. For many wood glue those numbers are 2 hours and 24 hours. I have seen some adhesives as long as 72 hours. CA clue is minutes. Believe in the directions.
Also glue will sit in the plastic container in a liquid form for a long, long time. If it is exposed to air the glue will harden (some glues need moisture). With two pieces of coated Proofgrade material it’s possible that not enough air is getting to the glue or not enough moisture is being wicked away. The full bond strength may be significantly increased.
You’re going to need more than a scuff.
You need to go completely through the clear finish coating until you hit raw wood, if you want the glue to wick into the wood fiber to make a strong joint.
The joints also need to be clamped to achieve strength, however you don’t want to over-tighten it or the glue will be forced out and create a glue-starved joint. Some squeeze-out is OK, All squeeze-out is bad.
I find that one thing every Glowforger should have is a lot of sticks. I use the regular wood glue on an array of those sticks using different grits and configurations to fit the need at the moment with a fair assurance that the moment will arise again.
I was toying with the idea of making some criss-crossing score marks or engraved lines to help give something to grab to. This is for my gameboy. The draftboard looks good, but oh my the maple makes it pop. (If it will stay together.)
When I’m nervous about something sticking for good, I use super glue and/or E6000 for the initial assembly, then hit it with this:
BUT BE CAREFUL because this glue is serious stuff! It dries nearly instantly; it’s really thin and runs out easily, so be precise, and I highly recommend wearing gloves. Before I learned to wear gloves, I thought I was being extra careful but still managed to have to cut my fingers apart with an x-acto knife. I recommend sanding off some finish anyway, but this glue WILL bond.