For a couple of years, I’ve been cutting script font designs from the Home Depot Chalkboard/Dry Erase Board that many makers on here use. Through trial and error and suggestions from here, I landed at Speed 135, Full Power, Manual Set Focus
Occasionally, it would not cut all the way through. I would check my optics, turn the board to a blank spot, and try again. I’ve always eventually gotten it to cut again.
Last week, nothing will get it to cut through my design. I tested a cut of a simple 1-inch circle and it cut clean through perfectly. I did that several times on different pieces of substrate–cut a simple circle and then tried my design. In every case, just the circle cut through.
My designs are not new–I’ve cut them all at least once (and many dozens of times) so I know it’s not something wacky with the file.
Since I’m not using proof grade material, Glowforge support was zero help. They just told me to do all the things I told them I’d already done in my initial message and ultimately said there was nothing they could do.
Has this happened to anyone? I’ve tried slowing down the cut, but it really burns the heck out of the substrate.
Sometimes the material is the problem. Test your design on cardboard, mdf or acrylic to test that it is the machine and not the material that is causing your issue.
Yes. That materials is dirt-cheap for a reason. You have to test and adjust settings for every piece. I have used quite a lot of it and never found “one” reliable setting for cutting it. Engraving is ok because you’re just breaking the surface (I engrave the white side and often color with alcohol ink or similar…)
Got a long phone call and didn’t include this - I use a lot of “hardboard” as well, which is what the B&W board is made from, just with coatings. Same thing, no matter where you get it, even across a single sheet you may have to adjust settings. That’s just what comes from using cheap materials.
I have to agree with @eflyguy and @carlacook999. There is nothing wrong with using certain cheap materials as long as you adjust your expectations. Personally, other than acrylic and baltic birch I stick with proofgrade and materials from Johnson Plastics. Just cheaper in the long run.
I use a lot of off brand leathers and hardwoods. They’re pretty consistent too. It’s weird engineered products that use unspecified glues and stuff that gets me in trouble. I know @timjedwards swears by his hardboard, but every time I get it at home depot it cuts terribly.
A reason that simple lines cut deeper is that the machine has to adjust on the run where there are lots of twists and turns but on a long even line it runs full and cuts much better. The two windows, one under the left side of the gantry, and the other on the left side of the print head easily have smoke stain them. If I am having cut issues like you describe, I clean those two windows and it usually solves the problem.
This material is VERY VARIABLE I speak from personal experience. also, as a fun note. they have multiple SKUS for the “same” product. and believe me they don’t all laser cut the same at all.
Where strength is not a major issue, but price is, I have found that Revolution Plywood to be the best I have found as there are very few cutting issues and per square foot usually the least expensive available. not for heirloom boxes etc. unless you add extra veneer.