I think this is a result of not the laser drifting, but the printed material not being the same on every sheet, or glued straight, etc.
@jamesdhatch. The printing is not consistent on the page and the gluing to the MDF backboard is definitely not consistent, in other words the source material drifts, not the laser cuts.
Ah. That makes sense. Glad itās not the GF
It doesnāt help you nowā¦ but I would approach this like I approached my puzzles.
Iād put a 12x20ā piece of material in the forge aligned to the crumbtray rulers.
Iād place my print design into the illustrator file and make a rectangle the same size as the print.
Then, Iād set up my piece cuts in relation to the graphic Iām printing.
Either hide all of the cuts or set them to non-printing and print the graphic out.
Trim the printer graphic.
Upload file and run the perimeter cut. Remove cutout and glue graphic. Should be exact same size. Place the cutout with graphic back into the original material, which is now a jig. Make sure itās aligned to the same place on the crumbtray.
Run the rest of your operations.
You would need a flatbed printer. They can get pretty expensiveā¦ youād also need to check about white inks. Most wonāt do white and you likely donāt have white MDF, so whatever would be normally white in a print on white paper, would actually be the color of the MDF.
I posted in another thread about the glue machine I use. Itās a Daige Maxit Adhesive System. Itās a hot glue machine. You put the print in and it goes over the roller putting the glue on the back. Then just stick it to whatever.
I started out with spray glues and they are miserable. They smell. They are hazardous. They are very temperature limited. And I donāt think they adhere very well.
I also bought a gallon of some other glue. I would put that in the Gluebot, apply a bit, and then spread it with a roller. The glue worked well, but the water content was too high for the chipboard and it would cause warping.