Disclaimer: I’m not a mechanical engineer, but… judging / thinking about the beam support and interlinkage of those designs, I think that the more downward weight you put on them the better they are for resisting lateral motion.
Maybe someone more professional can weigh in. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist…)
Those Simpson strong-ties are what I used to build my layout table, but I just bought the pieces I needed at Home Depot.
It will take a bit more work than the plastic leg kit to get everything leveled out just right, but if you have a tape measure and a helper it is easy. I managed by myself and a bunch of clamps, but it was a bit awkward. The upside is that you can choose the perfect table and shelf height just for you.
Well that’d also be assuming that the floor is level as well, and that’s something which the plastic legs will have a problem with. If you do all the legs at the same time and measure carefully, leg height adjustment screws (not included) would take care of the rest, I’d think.
I’m sure both the plastic and the Strong Tie’s are great time savers but I have gotten pretty good doing the same thing with just screws. Both pocket screws and through the board work great. Doing both as appropriate is even better. You can create the equivalent of a 4x4 by screwing 2x4s together with gaps where the cross pieces go.
Yeah, that is certainly something to take into consideration.
Yup. The plastic-leg kit lets you buy lumber at the hardware store, have them cut it to size, and you don’t have to measure or cut anything yourself, just screw it together. It looks pretty well finished with no finishing work.
The strong ties let you do almost the same thing, but you have to measure a little bit, and line stuff up. Not rocket science, but an issue for some. They also look a bit unfinished/industrial without some finishing work (like paint), which might be cool or annoying, depending on your taste.
If you just use wood, you can make something stronger, prettier, and (potentially) much cheaper, but it will take more time for the average non-woodworker.
For either of those I would consider wanting some real crossbracing. I have a work table built with the strong tie stuff that doesn’t flex much, but part of that is the triangular brace plates on the back and the screwed-on 3/4-ply bottom shelf. (The 1-1/2" oak over ply top probably doesn’t hurt either.)
Although then again the GF really doesn’t have that much fast-moving mass…
I built stages for my kids highschool for the past 15 years. Had a great tech director who does it full time for Yale. He used to say we made a great team because he could design without worrying about how it would get built.
My kids have all gone on to college but the director finagled me back for the spring musical - The Little Mermaid. I’m doing a bunch of sound activated LED effects. But what really convinced me was being allowed to make a Trident that shoots fireballs
I really want to do Miss Saigon because I think I know how to build a full size helicopter that compresses when raised up above the curtains and expands as it drops down
I converted/upgraded a metal framed TV cart to be the home for my GF. The cart previously had really crappy wheels so I cut/ground them off, attached two lengths of 2x4 to the bottom, and then bolted on some nice big 4" wheels. Rolls so nice now! I also put a new 5/8" sheet of plywood on to give it a larger top surface, now 39" x 24".
In order to use the pass-thru slot on the Pro, I am going to use the same table top with casters legs (like you suggest) and the larger storage drawers, stowed below when not in use, as an additional layout space while lasering.
I got this. Wanted something substantial, supports several hundred pounds, stainless steel, easy to assemble, arrived in a few days, cost was about $113 including tax and shipping. Love it. You can add wheels if you want. Top is 24" x 48". Perfect for me. Restaurant quality.