Yes, I removed/cleaned the lens and also the mirror on the top of the head under the logo plate.
And the two small round windows on the bottom of the head? (Just checking. Most people miss those.)
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They’re not talking about the one that you remove from the head. There are two small circles to the left and right of the larger hole where the main lens goes in. The two on the sides are flush to the bottom surface of the head. Those need to be cleaned too.
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Regarding thickness and warp: The calibration process takes 36 measurements of the height of the surface of the material. With this data, it creates a 3D surface map of your sheet of material, which it then uses to process the calibration.
In theory, this should enable you to use anywhere between very thin and 1/2" thick material. In practice, we’ve tested it extensively with flat, medium Draftboard, so that’s what we recommend. (Also, you can’t adjust the power settings, so whatever material it is has to work well with Draftboard score settings).
If you had an unsatisfactory calibration on warped material and then a great calibration on unwarped material, that would be interesting for the team to look at, so please let us know in this thread!
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Suggestion
Maybe the Set Focus option should clear any existing objects and plop down the precision preview target image on the bed automatically. Doesn’t make sense for everyone to have to download it to their local storage only to upload it back to Glowforge again. And, if the image needs to be updated by the mothership again, folks will automatically be using the latest and greatest with no need to make another announcement.
Thanks Karl! Many folks use Set Focus frequently, not just for the precision preview test, so it might be inconvenient if we kept plopping it in their workspace every time they wanted to use it. (Personally, I use it for every print; it gives me extra precision for layout that I appreciate).
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We’d also get a little upset if it cleared our existing objects we were trying to print. 
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I end up using it several times for every print. I just wish i would survive making the print or until it was changed.
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I used it tonight for fitting some more very tight cuts…beautiful results.
(I’m going to get really spoiled.) 
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you have snapmarks, so… MORE spoiled… 
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Truth. I’m totally rotten now.
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Yes, I cleaned ALL of the lenses. I re-cleaned everything 3 times, disconnected and waited a couple hours. It finally worked.
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Want to know how amazing lid calibration worked for me?
I didn’t notice the engraving on a box lid had shifted until printing was done. I still needed to print the bottom of the box though, so I thought I’ll give it a try and line up the bottom over the wrecked lid - see how well that worked out!!! I would have never attempted this before… I just used felt to cover the failed engrave that now decorated the bottom of the box. Nothing wasted.
Clarification: each strip shows the the lid tabs on the outside, and the bottom tabs on the inside. The lid fits snug on the box.
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So, if I understand you correctly, you set focus on one area of the bed, align some objects there, then set focus someplace else and align other objects there, etc.? Not sure if that’s what you meant.
The first time there is usually a mm slop available but after that even a small percent of a mm can mess up the drawing so I sometimes take several tries trying to get it just right.
This is a good example of how it can get tight…
the outer corners were a fraction of a mm off and it mostly ate the delicate spider webbing.
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Thanks for letting us know about that, @donna (and I’m sorry for the delay!) I’ve rolled your unit back to its previous calibration, and we’re looking into this on our end. I’ll follow up by email when I have more information. I hope this helps to get you back to printing in the meantime, but please let me know if you’re still running into trouble.
I’ve just done the calibration process and it got all the way to 98% then told me it failed. Kind people on another thread suggested posting it on here so the glowforge team can look at my logs?
While this is frustrating it could be resolved by putting in a second piece of proofgrade draftboard if it weren’t my last piece and I didn’t live in the UK.
When oh when are you going to start shipping proofgrade to the UK? AND why did you make it need proofgrade for the calibration if you’re not able to send it to all your customers?
I’m certainly not Support, but you could just mask the same piece and rerun the calibration.
I believe that will work…
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