Lit Door Plates

Around Christmas, the maintenance director got me a LED sign thing for my desk (which I tossed in the laser and made better cause acrylic :grin:). The superintendent saw it and wanted me to me some ‘cool signs for the teachers’ this is the result.

Black acrylic :proofgrade: backing, LED mounted to thick draftboard :proofgrade: with thick clear acrylic :proofgrade: front etched with the room number and name, Cherry plywood :proofgrade: , and medium clear acrylic :proofgrade: . All screwed directly to the concrete wall with 3 concrete screws countersunk with etched holes and acting as alignment pins keeping everything in line and snug. The result is something solid on the wall but reasonably thin. Power is run either through the wall to the room or flush mounted from the left or right edge. Draftboard is reversible so it can go on either side of the door.

Backplate engrave @ 600/FP/270
Center Clear SD Engrave
Cover Engrave @ 500/FP/270

In the future, the covers should really be thick clear acrylic :proofgrade:
LEDs are rated for 12v but end up being blinding to look at the signs so I backed those off to 9v and looks much better and easier on the eyes. I used adjustable power supplies and chained most of each building together so about 26 rooms per power supply running a total of 35 watts. So they are very easy to change the brightness if needed. Main power is run down some Cat5 (Cat 6 would have worked but 5 is what I had leftover and wanted to be rid of) Wiring looks basically like this - (no comments on whether or not the LED is reversed).

  1. Positive from the transformer to the orange pair. Blue is just a redundancy that could be connected to orange in the event of damage. Brown pair to the negative terminal on the transformer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LSVVTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Connect each led sign Orange to positive and GREEN to negative. Personally I did this by soldering leads to the LEDs and then using a combination of solder and rapid connectors to splice the connection in and prevent shorts/damage.

  3. At the end of the run connect the green and brown pairs. This balances the voltage drop across all the signs so that the first one and the last one are the same brightness. (less of an issue with some installs and not absolutely necessary.

I had 130 of these to build so I made a tool out of some scrap draftboard to assist with wiring on the leads for the LEDs.

Files attached for anyone wanting to copy.

Core solder jig

29 Likes

Very nice! I really like how that turned out!

1 Like

Looks fantastic!

Very nice looking sign.

“Job security”…

2 Likes

Anyone who might replace you doesn’t get one?
Love the idea!

Did you mention a source of power parts?

adding in the power source info to the original post -
I found these on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LSVVTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the 7.5v, 9v, and 12v settings all work but give varying brightness. ours are set to 9v

1 Like