Oriental Artwork 3d Relief

Getting the look of more depth than is really there was the ah-ha moment for me when figuring this stuff out. The trick seems to be laying down an image composed of dots first. This gives the areas subjected to less power proper shades. Follow up by running at least 2 passes at lower lpi (170 ~190). After you’ve gotten the depth almost where you want it, run a pass at a higher lpi (225 ~270). The shading layer is the magic though. It tricks the eyes into seeing more depth than is really there.
Thanks for the kind comments. I’m looking forward to sharing more projects.

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Beautiful! Enough said! I’m envious

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That is amazing! Really beautiful!

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Welcome to the forum.
It is obvious that you are getting the full benefit of Glowforge ownership. Thanks for sharing this result. It is impressive.

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Wow! You definitely have this technique figured out!

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Would you be willing to share a small cropped section of the source file from one of the areas with the extreme variations in “depth”?

For example, this section:

Here you go.
Dragon Section

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Thx!

That is much better detail than I usually see. Did you purchase the image?

No, actually I found this one in a “free” collection here: https://www.google.dk/search?q=3d+cnc+grayscale&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACdVHWeMif_1ocIjil07sNUEK-xvxHdztKHuCUO7d5Ul2wpsipMGR32FeVBQNdEMTccW9GWB-NOKJDOpgxxR4wY7uusCoSCaXTuw1QQr7GEUn1NXVlZaZWKhIJ_1Ed3O0oe4JQRB4LQfDB1lhIqEgk7t3lSXbCmyBHq5jzAuOG9cSoSCakwZHfYV5UFEUg09AVHZYPTKhIJA10QxNxxb0YR-hmbzjile1kqEglYH404okM6mBHf5oRfv_1xk4CoSCTHFHjBju66wEUn1NXVlZaZW&imgrc=pdO7DVBCvsbxWM%3A&cad=h#imgrc=HOrTr3YKxFl8FM

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Gorgeous!!! I am looking forward to seeing a map from you.

Now this is an interesting technique.

Wow indeed! Doesn’t look like you need any tips. I’d been trying this but getting flat tops. Going to try again using your inputs. Wow again and thanks!

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Agree with the above that you got beautiful results out of this image. One tip I would share if you decide to get into creating your own images (or re-tuning the ones you find), whenever I work with a different material, I print out a calibration piece with greys ranging from 5% - 100% and then have that next to me while I go into the file. I then try to isolate what I want to be a foreground part of the image v. a background part of the image and assign them relative spectrums on the gradient, using Photoshop curves adjustment layers to force them to “fit” within the right groups.

If that’s confusing, an example would be, I would take the dragon’s claw, select it in Photoshop and then use a curves layer to ensure that all the shades of gray within that part of the image stay between (as an example) 5-30% black. Then if I want to push some parts of the image forward into the foreground (or vice versa) I can easily do so.

This is especially useful when you’re starting from an existing image not optimized for engraving, like a photograph, where light and dark are determined by where light falls instead of relative proximity to the viewer. Breaking it into foreground and background images lets you focus your attention one piece at a time, and ensure that each piece ends up being at the “front” or “back” of a relief image as appropriate.

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Wow, this is beautiful! Nice job!

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Thanks for the kind comments and suggestions.

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Wow! Looks exceptional. Definitely saving your notes.

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Just curious to know if the forums rules have changed…

Or here: Luggage Tag

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The question implied was if they purchased the image and thus got a better resolution. I did not even ask where they got it. I knew it to be one I had seen many times, but not at that resolution.

I certainly never asked for the file, as that is what the rule is against.

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I think they were responding to me, probably not understanding my question and thinking I was asking for the file (I wasn’t, I asked for a small section to demonstrate the shading, to expand on the detailed explanation of their process that my post was in response to.)

That file is freely available with a simple Google image search (2300x2300).

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