No question you achieve a much higher level of accuracy than I do. I find that 0,02 is often the difference at best from the kerf in one place and another. and I tried to be realistic in the range of a pack of skewers which is in the range of 10% and as I measure a nubbin on a piece of 0.26 Zebrawood I get the same range of the pack of skewers interestingly the same 0.10 and 0.11 though square and not round though the holes will get a square file treatment so it will be more even. That I got Zebrawood and not ash I regard as a victory, It took multiple cuts with getting the material wet between each pass and still some places excessive and others needing a scalpel or jewelers saw to finish the cut. I need to figure out how to use the Zebrawood and Mahogany that I have but will not be buying any more of either.
Back to hinges I use a 0.125 drill when the hole is perpendicular to the laser cuts and so the hinge moves easily and room for glue where i do not wish it to move. Even so as noted it stands up to more stresses than most other woods and the 1/8" gets used as hinges, while the 1/4" is more used more as axles for perpendicular pins like in gears and the rectangular as pins where rotation needs to be prevented. in each case much more durable than other woods.
As I am thinking of the case with your oval basket I am wondering if you are using the kerf angle as the angle of the slant, and it is hard to get my head around the different distances each part of each row would needs to increase that would be different at the long diameter than the short and in between in between.
Another material that might (!) work is 3D printer filament. I’ve used it successfully for hinge joints, but only 3 plies deep. Might be more fiddly to make it work for lots of joints. Of course, you might be able to go a touch undersize and then apply heat to make it deform and lock into place. Hmm.
Nylon filament could be very interesting but my aesthetic is perhaps too sensitive to having anymore not-wood in a wood piece beyond a bit of glue and even then wood glue over epoxy or CA. I have made filler from sanding dust, glue and water.
That really turned out nice. I went hunting for copper rods yesterday after work, but didn’t get very far. The hobby store I was after had apparently moved, and the craft store nearby didn’t have them, and by then I was out of steam and just went home.
A welding supply store will have brazing rod in many diameters, I was looking at those and thinking that melting one end into a ball could make an interesting pin or a headed rivet with the matching diameter could be interesting
In looking I see there are hundreds of brazing alloys available. None contain Iron. Many have a certain amount of silver and phosphorus that helps in fluxing. I think the commonly available rod is almost all copper with a tiny amount of tin and zinc
Not sure why the forum decided to call out this post to me today - but it’s a good one, especially as it would work just as well on an Aura! The linked original is a good one too. #necrogame here we come!
I went hunting for copper rods yesterday after work, but didn’t get very far. The hobby store I was after had apparently moved, and the craft store nearby didn’t have them, and by then I was out of steam and just went home. 
