Yup, id much rather have barely noticeable aliasing at 340lpi in some cases, than have holes in my material and singed corners from a score. The scores, even without the corner fixes were way too powerful to begin with, generally going almost 90% of the way through the material instead of just marking the top. I always had to use the lowest power and highest speed to try to prevent this. Low power mode helps a lot with this issue, and im definitely looking forward to the cornering fixes.
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I assume you have to adjust the power and or speed to compensate for bumping the LPI up?
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It depends on the material, some more than others to prevent extra burning/melting. Engraving on EVA foam for example is a definite yes. You have to turn down the power quite a bit and up the speed.
This is my problem. I don’t know a darn thing about lasers either (hence the reason why I’ve just been having fun so far with the proofgrade maple plywood). Trying to figure out where to start with a particular piece of non-proofgrade material I think is my next step (aside from doing some stuff wth acrylic and leather) and so the whole power/speed/lpi balance is something I know will take some testing (which of course uses materials to do, and money… darn money!).
Reminds me of the jump from shooting photography in auto to learning to shoot manual and wrapping your brain around shutter speed/aperture/ISO. Just trying to convince myself here to simply dive in and try it out, but running on auto with the proofgrade is so safe and easy.
Thanks for putting your questions out there 'cause I’m learning a lot from what I’m reading from everyone’s discussion (even if it does leave me with more questions sometimes).
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