Push button love needed

First off I tried to post on TIPS but for some reason I was not able to , the program blocked me ;(

So my work flow is going beautifully , however having to get up to push that button every time I cut is not productive , but I understand the thinking of safety that was behind the concept of it.

However, a large number of us have spent $1000 or more on just getting the machine to stay cool so what is another $150 to get a Nest Camera as I did to watch in real time the laser as it cuts on my computer screen.

Its pops up a nice large window of the glowforge in action. So that is my Tip for everyone that wants to be safe but also be realistic with there actions.

With that said , I am looking for some way , other than building a Robot to push the print button.
I did make a very very long stick but people trip on it.
I tried roller skates but that is to loud
I thought of hiring my neighbors kid to push the button all day 700 times.

Does anyone have a tip on how to really Hack that button push,
I would even consider buying a Robot that is made to do it.

So my question is , how much would you all pay for a Robot to Push the Button to increase productive time wasted. $$$

DISCLAIMER – DON’T DO THIS

(See below)

But… if you insist
https://microbot.is/push/

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(Also too little too late but a wyze camera is $20)

I don’t really understand the trauma of pushing the button, but…

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Frankly i need it for the exercise…got to jump up and run across the room. :smile:

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You and me both! :running_woman:t4:

I actually use my iPad a lot. I design on my laptop and upload. Then I go to the GF with my iPad, put in the materials, lay everything out on the screen, print from the iPad and then press the button right then and there. Also have the cancel button close by on the iPad.

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Be glad that you don’t. @geek2nurse is the poster child for “pushing the button suuucks.”

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I use a power chair that works much better than roller skates and it is much to dry to use actual skates and like baby monitors difficult to train in any case.

Btw

You might want to try that when it does not matter as you might not like the results if you try when it does matter.

My experience is that the only way to stop a job once it is underway is to lift the lid. I really really wish there was something like pushing that button again or even push and hold but as yet I have not seen another way.

That’s kind of the point. I am standing right next to the GF, but with my iPad. It’s just a solution for people who don’t want to (or can’t) carry their laptop around. I have both the cancel button and the lid handy. :slight_smile:

Flipping the breaker would probably do it…

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If you mean the half hour at least it would take me to dig through to reach the breaker box it would probably be way late.

Fortunately you do not have to lift the lid much.

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OK, that’s fair.

Put it on a switched outlet?

Or…

Run a heavy duty extension cord over to you, attach another heavy duty extension cord, then plug the GF into that.

Yank the two cords apart at your feet, voila :wink:

OMG - This is exactly what I was looking for to Push the Button. Fantastic find.

THANK YOU , :slight_smile: This forum has been amazing for me.

Linear actuator connected to an Arduino board with WiFi for a remote lid opener. :grin:

I ordered the Microbot and will post a video very soon as to how it all works on the glowforge. Thanks agian.

Had to cancel a job tonight and it cancelled right away. Maybe they’ve fixed something?

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Tritto, me.

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I run Octopi on a couple of 3D printers. They connect through little Raspberry Pi microcomputers via wi-fi to my home wireless network. I can remotely load and print via that system and each of the computers also has a camera so I can observe the print in progress.

That’s a common thing for 3D printing - you can Google ‘Octoprint’ for details.

I long for similar capabilities with my 'forge.

Oh, and the instructions with every 3D printer I own says something about leaving it unattended, which is a pretty stout requirement when some prints may take DAYS to complete.

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to be fair, it’s a lot less likely that a 3D print gone wrong will burn down your house.

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Hot end typically runs at 240 C, bed at 60-80C, but loss of control and those could flame if they continued to draw current.

Heaven help me, but when I turn on my lead pot for bullet casting, I often walk off for forty-five minutes for it to get up to temperature - 700F in a spare bedroom.

Won’t even talk about those incandescent thingies in the toaster.

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