So I currently have my glowforge on a smart plug that turns on when I say it’s Laser Time. LOL but I was just wondering if there’s any reason why I should not use this? I only use the command keyword when the unit is idle.
I use a lot of smart plugs, but not on my Laser Printer because the initial starting current draw is above the rating for the smart plug. But they do make high current switches.
Somewhere here is a thread against using UPS’s for slightly different reasons.
If it is a well made made switch with sufficient current capacity, it seems like it shouldn’t be much more risk to the machine than the wall plug since somebody could have wired that improperly too. Only thing is, the company can’t recommend it since they can’t test them all and if a brown out due to the plug damages the electronics, the damage isn’t covered by the warranty. But it doesn’t seem likely and their power supply also probably includes protection circuitry.
The air filter and the laser cutter together are probably over or close to over the current limit of most of these switches however.
Suggest that if you have any problems that have even a 1% chance of being caused by power fluctuations, noise on the line or even communications issues that you test the unit without the smart switch before reporting to P&S.
But as long as you have no issues to report, wouldn’t worry about it.
Make sure you are using a switch and not a dimmer module. I’ve been happy with the GE outlets and will be using them for future installs.
What brand? I had mine on a “switch” from iDevices and found it would occasionally cycle of and back on seemingly randomly. Not sure why. I did see some suggestion that it may do that if it loses the wifi connection. After it did it to me when 4/5 of the way through a 70 minutes engrave, I decided the convenience o was not worth it. I noticed my Christmas tree did the same thing when connect to the other switch I own.
How are you controlling the switches?
Besides the iDevices app, I had it connected to my echos. I have 5 including one next to the laser. So I could start the calibration process from almost anywhere in the house.
I have two outdoor outlets from iDevices and can’t say I’ve noticed them doing the same. They’re we’re used to control my outfit Christmas lights.
Hmm, make sure you don’t have the GF switch in any groups or macros in the Alexa app. It is possible you are getting the power cycling from another event.
For me I’m going through a Wink hub before Alexa. I have several things like motion sensors and smoke detectors that happen independently of Alexa control.