The light on my glowforge is red and has been for months. Its working okay for the most part, so I didn’t really worry about it, but my passthrough has been giving me trouble and not working much at all, so I thought I would reach out for possible help.
I have already tried to disconnect and reconnect to wifi, I have cleaned the machine, restarted it and it remains red. When I disconnected and set up wifi again, the light did turn teal, but once the process was done, it went back to red. It goes to the regular light when its time to cut, so it’ll go to a light color and blink, but then again, once the cut is done it goes back to red.
The only thing I wonder if this is affecting my passthrough at all which I can’t imagine how it would, but my machine has been so good to me, I would hate for the passthrough to be no good anymore.
In the meantime, I have used it for plenty of projects with no issues (as long as its not a passthrough project), I have been able to engrave, cut and score all as long as im not using the passthrough.
have googled the red light issue and really can’t seem to find much at all. Please help!
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The fact that the light is red when the machine is idle but is the appropriate color when in use would lead me to ignore the red light. I don’t think it is related in any way to the passthrough.
What issues are you having with the passthrough?
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right, I agree, but you never know. LOL I have been using it regularly with the red light with no issue at all.
The passthrough just isn’t aligning correctly. it is driving me CRAZY!!! every time it moves to the second step the alignment gets crooked, especially on something with straight lines, it just gets all wonky. If Im lucky, there the alignment will just be off slightly and Ill use an exacto to get it completely cut, but sometimes its just so off!
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Sometimes the performance of the passthrough can be improved by adding some items to the file so there are areas for the camera to “find”. You don’t actually need to engrave these targets, but you can if you have areas in the margin available. The more points for focus, the better the alignment.
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Before there was passthrough, I set up a system I still use now,
If your material is hard against the right side, your x-values and rotation can be fixed. Then I break the cuts into individual items (different colors) but place them properly. This gives you the chance to pick where the break points should be (the big advantage of my style).
In picking the break points, sometimes near horizontal lines do not need breaking at all, and if the breaks are not on a single y value, it does not matter, so you try and just pick the places where the lines are vertical. If you make sure that you use the Focus command and check the real numbers on the popout, you can set the y value to your known distances and you should have very accurate cutting.
Making sure that each piece totals no more than 10.9" tall, you do not even need to evoke the passthrough command.
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interesting, but that makes a lot of sense. Maybe Ill try it. Ive done plenty of just line cuts through the passthrough before and haven’t had any issues. but my machine is about 5-6 years old so I guess its just loosing its touch.
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ok, so this is a lot of information, but I THINK I understand. Do you happen to have a photo as an example? Thank you!!!
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I haven’t!!! thank you so much, I need to attempt to use the passthrough this afternoon, so I will go through these tips and hope for the best. Thank you again!
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Not really. It is pretty straight forward. They recently moved this…
anyway. The rows of dots are about where you are measuring from with 0,0 in the upper left corner, which is away from the edge. So you will be measuring the lower right corner instead of the upper left shown here.
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