So I got my snapmarks feature turned on (yay!), and want to try it on a passthrough project.
I read the tutorial posts on how to score snapmarks on the workpiece and then slide the piece up. The tutorial was for a butterfly cutout. In the tutorial, the scored snapmarks were on a disposable part of the material, so no big deal. But I want to have the widest possible piece go through the machine and keep the whole thing - the project is to score a large map, hoping to be 20" wide by about 30" tall.
I’d rather not have to rip the final piece to width to cut the snapmarks off, because I think the maximum spacing for the snapmarks is only 16", which would cut out 20%-25% of the final dimensions of the piece. But, I don’t want scored snaps all over the final piece, either.
So I want to just score the snapmarks into the masking layer of the supersize proofgrade piece that I got. Is there a manual score setting that someone can suggest that will be dark enough to work, but not cut through the masking and leave a mark on the finished product? Or should I put some sacrificial patches of additional tape there?
I’d definitely go with the extra tape…and remember you’re limited to about 19.47 inches wide right now. Lightly score each set of snapmarks the first time for placement, then cover those with several layers of tape and score them again at a higher power. It takes about 10% power to get through the tape, so first score should be about 5%, subsequent score at about 20% on the additional layers.
Yes, understood, the artwork would not be 100% of the board width, but my understanding was that the snapmarks had to be no more than I think 16" apart. So I was trying to figure out how to use them for placement of the artwork without having to sacrifice the part of the board that they end up on…
Let’s say that where the snapmarks are is also where I want to have artwork on the piece. Can you use the taped up snapmarks for placement of the artwork in the GFUI, then open the lid and remove the tape, then proceed with the operation? Or are all bets off if the lid is opened?
As you’re moving the material through the machine, you will need to use the top set of snapmarks to align the image.
(Damn! You guys keep coming up with these ridonculous challenges.)
Let me think… really hard to do with a sinus headache…
Okay…you will…
On the first section - lightly score the bottom set of Snapmarks just for placement.
Process the first section, including processing right over the snapmarks you scored.
Place some extra pieces of tape over the snapmarks.
Score the snapmarks again at slightly higher power so that they are visible on the tape.
Shove everything forward.
Snap to the marks. Remove the extra tape.
Lightly score ONLY the bottom set of snapmarks from the second section.
Process the engraves and whatnot from the second section.
Place extra layers of tape over the lightly scored bottom snapmarks.
Score the snapmarks again, slightly higher power, yadda, yadda, yadda.
Shove everything up again.
Snap to the marks. Remove the extra tape.
Lightly score only the bottom set of marks from the third section file.
Process the engraves for the third section.
and so on and so forth…in each case, you will do the placement engrave for the snapmarks BEFORE you process the engraves for the section, use the thickened snapmarks to snap, and then remove the excess tape.
If you try to engrave over multiple layers of tape it’s going to show in the final results.
