Cutting wood veneer, at what is probably the upper temperature limit,( my digital thermometer registers 85F nearby) at 12:42pm, when it stopped moving, motors running, and about 85% of the cut is finished.
The motor(s) kept running, but after about 2 minutes, I lifted the lid, whereupon the head went back to the home position.
No signs of any orange button, nor indication in the GFUI that anything is amiss.
I can recut the missing parts later, but I’m hoping that if I leave everything in place, and go back to it, without switching off, it will pick up where it left off.
Is this so ?
EDIT Now getting a message - ‘We’ll resume where we stopped when we’ve cooled down’
and the dreaded orange button !
That’s what I thought, but interestingly the messages appeared after I’d posted here !
Got an old AC unit hooked up, and the external temperature has dropped to 81F. The orange light is now blinking, and the ‘Alert’ message comes and goes.
So, hopeful that we may be running soon.
I wonder if I need to hit the print button again, as the message did say that it would resume automatically ?
if it was delayed showing up, it may just be delayed responding again. not sure.
i’ve found the overheating error messaging to be inconsistent. in fact, part of my goal this weekend is to reconfigure my window to have an AC window unit as well as the exhaust vent. which means cutting new boards. hoping to avoid these error messages in the future.
I wonder if I’d opened the lid during a time when the GF had decided it was too hot anyway, ie it had stopped, but no orange light.
Perhaps the stopped condition overrode the ‘cancel’ effect of the lid being opened.
I’ve never actually had an overtemp/cooling notice so just guessing here… If I understand correctly the cooling warning and a solid orange light would occur in an overtemp condition. (No idea why your notice was delayed) You were seeing a flashing orange light. I wonder if the button was flashing because the lid was opened, the head re-homed, and the resume function was no longer possible?
The only time the lid was opened was right at the beginning.
Head stops moving - no orange light .
After ~ 2 mins, I opened the lid, and the head returned to home position, so I closed the lid.
I assumed it was an over heating problem, so I came in to post to the forum.
When I returned to the garage to check the GF, I noticed the orange light was on, so I started to organise an A/C unit. As the temperature came down, the orange light started to flash, brief off, long on. I guessed the temperature sensor was close to the upper end of its range, so I came back to check my posting, and noticed the warning message was present, but going off and on. This turned out to be in sequence with the light, but a little out of phase.
When the light went out, I decided to just hit the print button after a short interval, as no resumption seemed to be likely, and it went to the start of my file again.
I’m sorry you ran into trouble, but thanks for letting us know about this. The details are very helpful. I’ve let the team know that the “Cooling Down” message didn’t appear for you when your unit paused to cool, nor did the button light up. We’ll look into that. As for your print, I’m so sorry it didn’t turn out beautifully. Opening the lid before a print is finished will automatically cancel it.
Your Glowforge Pro features a closed-loop liquid cooling system that uses the air from the room to remove heat. It’s boosted by a solid-state thermoelectric cooler that allows for heavier use at higher ambient temperatures than the Basic. It is designed to print in an operating environment between 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 Celsius) and 81 degrees Fahrenheit (27 Celsius). Printing outside these ranges may cause your unit to pause before starting, or to pause periodically during the print for cooling. This isn’t harmful, but it can make your print take a little longer.
You can try any of these things to improve warm-weather performance:
Try printing with no material on the bed (so as not to generate smoke and fumes) and no exhaust hose attached. If this works, then the problem may be that your exhaust hose is constricting the flow of air out of the unit, preventing cooling.
Examine the bottom-right side of your Glowforge. There are air intake vents, and if they become obstructed, it could make cooling less effective.
Try pointing a fan at the right side of your Glowforge. If there is warm air around the intake, this could help it cool off.
Power off your Glowforge and allow it to cool, then power it on and print immediately. When it sits idle, the fans are off, so heat can build up.
Just wait. Your print may take a little longer when it’s warm, but your Glowforge will protect itself and make sure it cools enough to prevent any loss of power or damage. And it’s clever enough to pick up from exactly where it left off, even if it loses Wi-Fi during the print!
One more thing: if you are venting outdoors, ensure that changing conditions don’t cause extreme temperatures or humidity to enter the Glowforge unit through the exhaust hose. Disconnect the hose from the outside air when the Glowforge is not in use. If you have been venting outdoors previously, i may help to turn your unit off and open the lid for a few minutes to allow any hot or humid air to dissipate before trying again.
I hope these suggestions help. It looks like you’ve been printing successfully since you opened this thread. Could you please let me know if you run into any other trouble?
I take this to mean that when the machine is switched on, but not actually doing anything, the fans are off, so the psu and any electronics that are on, will all be producing a small amount of heat. In a ‘normal’ situation, that may not be a problem, but we’re discussing the situation when the machine is near its upper temperature limit, and that extra heat may give this sort of problem.
Just my pennyworth.
I don’t know that you would see an appreciable difference. A low-rpm fan mode might work here just to evac our air that’s been warmed by the internals and what’s leeched off of the coolant from either the radiator or the TEC. High wouldn’t do much of anything extra since airflow doesn’t seem do a whole lot to remove heat from the coolant.