is there a good finish that anyone has used for draftboard. i think it looks great but noticed oil from hands touching it stains. it’s for a dollhouse so hopefully a recommendation is also not toxic, thx!
Well it darkens it uniformly, but it gives a nice smooth finish (just tried it) - some genius somewhere on the forum recommended Howard’s Feed-N-Wax recently, and I tried it, and it gives a nice little shine to the Proofgrade stuff. (It’s not really completely waterproof, but it does add a little bit of protection to let you wipe it off before it stains the wood.)
Krylon clear matte acrylic spray has worked well for me in this regard.
Shellac works well for most woods and I would guess draftboard. And since it’s used as a candy and pill coating I would think it should be one of your safer option.
2 coats of Shellac and then a coat of satin lacquer works for me.
I try to use Lacquer when possible for painting. It sands easier, and dries way faster than the enamels I have tried.
That is a great drill and tap holder. Would look good in my shop.
It’s an odd mix of tools. SAE taps and metric drills. I would share the file, if you are interested. but you should roll your own!
The stand-offs look really nice there
Here is the original post with stand-off info.
thanks for offering . But I already jumped out and did a design copying yours. Good inspiration!!
has anyone treated proofgrade plywood?
I’m currently using rub on poly to seal my garden stakes (brichwoood/redoak) and wondering if it’ll work with proofgrade plywood and/or if I need to seal. For example, if I make coasters, would I need to seal the engraving? Sounds like a simple “yes” but wanted to check in…
The MDF materials that’s sanwhiched between the veneer on top of the plywood - that would expand if wet, right?
Thanks for the help!
Yes. It’s got an MDF core so will soak up water over time. Poly works to seal engravings & the edges.
I use water-based stain. I just use a thin coat and dont let it sit long before wiping off. Works great!
Welcome to the forum!