Has anyone else found that the proofgrade settings for Maple are completely wrong? I cut 3 of the identical project. One on basswood using the proofgrade settings and it came out beautifully. I cut the same project on Medium Maple plywood but I accidentally used the Medium Maple Hardwood settings. It didn’t cut all the way through the board on about 1/2 of the pieces but using an exacto knife I was able to make it work. The next one I cut again on Medium Maple Plywood with the correct proofgrade settings and it didn’t cut ONE SINGLE PIECE all the way through. It is 45 individual pieces taking up 3/4 of a sheet and some of the pieces have cutouts in the middle of them. NOT ONE cut all the way through. A few of the pieces left dots on the back so you could kind of see where they are, but most of it from the back side looks like I never did anything. I am NOT happy that I wasted a $25 piece of wood because the glowforge app settings are wrong.
Welcome to the forum.
It has been my experience that the Proofgrade settings work very well when the optics and fans are clean and the material is held flat to the honeycomb tray.
Glowforge stands behind their materials and settings and will replace material if the proofgrade settings don’t provide the promised outcome. Send photos along with the date and time of the cut to Glowforge support.
I do not believe the proofgrades settings are incorrect.
Until today that has been my experience too, but this weekend I tried to print this project several times and even the engraving wouldn’t show up so this morning I went through the ENTIRE clean up process. Laser, Mirror, tube, everything. The Basswood one cut beautifully. The maple ones, not well at all. I just printed the bases for this project on cherry (which printed just fine last week) and they did the same - barely cut through the wood in most places (but not all) and not strong enough to cut through the tape on the back on about 50%. There was just an “upgrade” to the settings not long ago and I think they messed stuff up more than they fixed.
Something is going wrong for you, but to state that the Proofgrade settings are incorrect is not logical as more users would be having this problem and we aren’t.
Maple’s the kind of plywood I use most and I’ve never had any trouble with the Proofgrade settings.
The last time Proofgrade settings were adjusted was in 2020, and it was only the defaults for engraving that changed, not cuts.
Its really not in their favor to break the settings as they cover any prints that do not complete successfully on Proofgrade.
Like @dklgood said, Open a support ticket with pictures of each failed print as well as the time/date of your attempt and they will grab the logs and look into it.
By the way, the Proofgrade cut settings for medium cherry plywood, medium maple plywood, and medium basswood plywood are essentially the same. It is possible your wood is warped or swollen from humidity, but the settings have not changed and are not wrong.
Luckily they stand by the product. Send them a note with a picture and the day/time of the failed print. 
If you have had any trouble, then cutting and entire sheet of little pieces is a lot more adventurous than I would be. The last bit of work I was doing I cut and engraved little rectangles in the areas that would be future scrap, making sure that worked before doing the whole job, as the rectangles did not matter how they came out, and there are many places that can be missed when cleaning lenses. A lens that looked clean still left a brown stain on the wipe and worked much better after. There are also many places that don’t need cleaning that can cause as much damage as help. There are many who come here having problems after too enthusiastic cleaning.
I hadn’t had any trouble before this and I just assumed the first trouble was because I had used the Hardwood settings instead of the Plywood settings. I also didn’t do a “too enthusiastic” cleaning. I pulled the mirror, gently wiped it with the cloth, pulled the lens, gently wiped it (nothing on either one). Cleaned off the tube. Everything printed beautifully on the basswood and the draftboard, just not cherry or maple.
There are 7 optical bits you should be cleaning with Zeiss wipes, not just 2. You also need to apply some pressure (don’t be too “gentle”) to get all of the resinous buildup off those optics, or they may look clean but not actually be clean.
There is no reason to clean the tube, and a multitude of reasons to clean the side windows, the other optics and the fans.
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