Yay! Thank you. I finally ‘got’ something. This will be very helpful.
Nice! DIY is almost always cheaper.
Did you see the 2x4 basics kit I linked to above? I picked one of those up and it made construction a breeze. I had everything ready to go in a very short time.
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I actually bought the 2x4 Basics workbench and built it per your recommendation, it is awesome and I thank you much for turning me on to it.
I would really love to add casters to the base. After analyzing the legs I came up with a couple of ways to add casters but I am not satisfied with either.
Do you have any suggestions? I haven’t searched for articles online for adding casters to this particular workbench, but I imagine that I wont find much.
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I guess it depends if you want it to always be on casters, or if youre wanting to use lifting casters (which are quite a bit more expensive, but leave your workbench stable when not in use). Depending on which one you get will change where they need to be mounted.
If you go for regular casters, I would run a wooden support between 2x4s at a 45deg angle underneath, and mount the casters there (as close to the corners as possible).
If you get the lifting casters youll want to put them on the outside so you can kick lift the table. They have some cost associated with them, but if you want your workbench to be super stable this is the better option
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Thanks for the suggestion, I was thinking about a 45 degree support to mount locking casters, but now you have me considering the lift casters. Really helpful, Thanks @takitus!
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Another option might be fully locking casters. They are casters that lock the wheel from spinning and the caster from rotating. I have them on several shop carts and they work great. I have the Woodcraft casters below on several shop carts and they work great. They are rated for 300 pounds each and are easy to operate with your foot. They are relatively expensive, but Woodcraft usually puts them on sale for about 2/3 that price a couple times a year.
Recently I found the lighter duty 175 pound casters at Home Depot, but have not used them myself. They look of decent quality and have good reviews.
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I’ve used heavier-duty versions of these Footmaster leveling casters for 1/2 to 3/4 ton equipment and they have been working out just great. They can be used to level the support structure or the feet can be retracted to bring the casters into contact with the floor so that the structure can be easily moved. For what its worth, most makers recommend buying casters that are sized so that each caster can take half the full weight of whatever they support, so be aware of that whatever caster you buy.
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I was less than impressed by the red homedepot casters when I looked at them in store a few months ago. They cantilever out a bit too much for my liking, and the brake mechanism presses into the wheel surface in such a way as to make me think it will cause damage over time. They look pretty though, with that red compound!
Yes. I think you get what you pay for with the two casters I listed.
I’m pretty sure the 2x4 basics kit is not height adjustable. Just make sure if you add casters that it doesn’t add so much height that its uncomfortably high to work on. I have made that mistake once before.
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thats why I was telling him to mount on one of the 2x4s, or on a bridge between two of them. Theres about 3" clearance at the bottom, so he should be able to find a caster that will just barely clear that…
but better to go with the lifting casters, that way its always on the floor unless youre moving it.
Right, I didn’t clue in at first till I reread the post, good call.
After watching the promo video, the size didn’t really occur to me. After seeing the image up top, I went back and watched the video again. Yup, this thing is a beast! I’m gonna have to rethink the layout in the mancave. I was going to sit it right next to my 3D printer, but now I’m not sure if the desk is big enough.
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Sitting in shop contemplating the forge placement, I have changed my mind a few times.
The latest plan is to place it on a shelf with full extension drawer glides under a tall workbench, utilizing unused space.
First thought was to place it on the steel welding/grinding table under a window that has power ventilation, but that would require moving the forge whenever I needed the table for other operations.
I am fortunate because the crawlspace under the floor is evacuated by an oversize radon fan, so I realized I could place it anywhere in the shop and vent it through the floor.
Just to give some perspective on the size…I have two lasers and the Glowforge is actually wider than both. Not near as deep or high, although with the filter I think it will be as high as my green one.
The TV cabinet is 30" high and is a perfect height for me to see into and handle materials (I’m 5’ 3") so I’ll probably get another one for the Glowforge when it’s at my office.
I also included the pic of my exhaust set-up…since I don’t have windows, I vent out the roof with an industrial blower that sucks out the fumes. The sliders are essential to cut off cold or hot air from the outside.
Even with the blower, it is still recommended that you use as few elbows in your venting as this will slow the air flow.
The slim, telescoping vents may not work unless the Glowforge has a pretty powerful blower for the exhaust.
The TV cabinet is 30" high and is a perfect height for me to see into and handle materials (I’m 5’ 3") so I’ll probably get another one for the Glowforge when it’s at my office.
I also included the pic of my exhaust set-up…since I don’t have windows, I vent out the roof with an industrial blower that sucks out the fumes. The sliders are essential to cut off cold or hot air from the outside.
Even with the blower, it is still recommended that you use as few elbows in your venting as this will slow the air flow.
The slim, telescoping vents may not work unless the Glowforge has a pretty powerful blower for the exhaust.
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Just found this on clearance for $11 at Walmart…should fit the Forge just fine with a bit of room on each side.
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The airflow resistance is something I have been pondering.
The standard dryer vent hose is good for creating turbulence due to its corrugated nature, probably not much, but there is a reduction in efficiency. For that reason I plan on duct work.
Can I ask what the CFM of your fan is? My forge will dump into an evacuated area in the crawlspace, but I plan to augment it.
Your measuring stick is already 5 feet tall? Soon time for a drivers license…
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I have yet to work on this part of placement for the Glowforge and had asked about how much room to allow for the duct elbow for venting out the window above. This is what Dan said;
“Yes, the hose is a standard 4” dryer hose, and we’ll include it with every Glowforge order (even if you also ordered a filter). A 90 degree turning bracket can be used, or you can curve the hose, which will probably take 6-8" depending on how willing you are to smush it a bit."
It was suggested by others that I use a slim, periscope style of vent…so I’m hoping that will work for me.
1 or 2 small bends with 45 deg angles shouldnt effect you too much. if you are running a larger venting system like in the photo above you have to take everything into account. They have a 90 degree turn in there which is inefficient, they could have used a Y joint there to reduce friction a bit. If the run gets too long you might have to put another fan at the end or somewhere in the middle to keep things moving.