Pro.
There is a trick to getting more height with the Pro’s front pass-through but we won’t get into that 
Even a way to keep it from stinking up the place when you do it. No solution for something you’re going to push all the way through the machine.
The Redsail makes doing things like denim jackets, sneakers, cabinet doors, etc really easy. That’s where I figured out the pass-through alignment indexing I use on the GF.
You use a different method than what the rest of us are doing?
Not a lot. I led off the discussion on how to do it way back when 
It’s similar to what I do on the Shopbot too.
Indexing pins? (Jeesh, it’s been so long ago, and we’ve covered a hell of a lot of ground since then.) 
A lot of the people on here use magnets or bed pins to hold the material flat while cutting, and if you get a piece of tape (gorilla tape, gaffes tape, etc.) you can check if the pieces are cut through completely before removing the board 
just use the tape to see if the piece is loose. Whatever you have holding the material flat should also keep the board in place while you check the cut. If it’s not cut all the way, hit it again, otherwise you’re good to go
And if some pieces are cut all the way through but others not, pull all the cut ones out before resending the cut. That will keep you from getting excessive kerf & charring on those.
Haha yeah that’s a good idea. I’m still doing one-offs so all my cut operations can be disabled in the GUI, but if mutiple cuts are the same operation that wouldn’t work…
I’ve complained about this a lot, and after moving my GF onto a much sturdier and heavier table (and obsessively leveling it) almost all my problems have gone away… now I’m able to use visual placement almost entirely and be able to trust it will cut where it’s showing it will. To the point that I’m actually quite impressed with it. Accurate measurement and ensuring your laser bed is dead-flat and level makes a world of difference.
Just curious, what kind of table did you end up using? And what did you use to check level (not an old bubble level I’m guessing)?
Level isn’t the issue, it needs to be flat. A straight edge across the diagonals will show if it curved, which is what matters.
I ended up relocating it to the surface of some architectural flat files in our studio, which have a custom-made oak top and had already been fairly aggressively leveled (to ensure smooth rolling of drawers). A little bit of shimming of the top made it quite level, I used an old high-quality bubble level we have to balance this out in all directions.
As palmercr says, it’s important the GF not be warped - initially my door did not close flush, because the frame was being slightly warped, after relocating it was all good. You don’t want anything being twisted or lifted or anything like this as the image rendering from the lid camera is really highly distorted so any tiny variance becomes super magnified. Fixing a lot of these issues and reducing shake/movement helped most of my problems and made it all a lot more usable.
For me, it never does a scan “before each print”… only after (as well as reasons 1 and 2 above).
Unless you’re talking about the material height check (red laser)… that happens before each job. If that’s what you’re talking about, I agree. There’s no reason I can think of it should happen before each job if the lid hasn’t been opened.
Lemme be clear… I’m not opposed to fine controls in the GFUI. I’ve just accepted that they don’t exist and may never exist. It’s far less frustrating to have that mindset than to think the GFUI is lacking those. 
That said, there’ve been quite a few times when I’ve huffed and puffed about having to go back ti Illustrator to make a 1º rotation, re-save the file, delete then re-import the file into the GFUI, and re-position it on my material. It’s no fun. But I just take a deep breath and accept it.
Totally.
Yes, this exactly, the scanning material height bit.
I’m pretty sure that’s a feature. 
Guess what the weak link in the process is?
The users. (Yes, us.) That pre-cut scan is to quickly check the height, to make sure that we didn’t put anything in there that is significantly different in height from what we said it was.
Because if we did, the placement is going to be off, and we’ll potentially waste expensive materials.
I like having that in there. I sometimes forget to tell it that I switched material. 
It should measure the height where it is going to cut / engrave. That will change unless you are repeating the same job in the same place due to it not cutting deep enough.
But it doesn’t need to do that after we’ve done a job and then are doing another (another pass, adding some artwork for step 2, etc) if you haven’t opened the lid.
Maybe I’m not supposed to be doing this, but I sometimes stick different height materials side by side in the bed. 1/4" right next to 1/8". (Just cuts down on trips to the machine.)
It does flash that warning if the height is off. (Some of the 3D builds like the carousel use both, and I’m lazy.)
Actually, if it is having to scan the height each time in case you are cutting two different heights that kind of blows the autofocus on curved objects promise out of the window doesn’t it.
It also begs the question, why not do it first time the lid is closed so all the GUI settings are for the correct height?
That is the basic problem. Certainly there are direction changes but the problem is showing up more on lighter direction changes than seemed to be the case a few months ago. Those start/stop burn through have become more an issue where the wood undergoes extreme bending as that is where breaks happen.
I have been trying different approaches. Low power & low speed were not cutting it, so I added multiple passes and you saw the results
No, it takes the (currently single) measurement from the center of the area to be processed during the current operation. That doesn’t preclude the addition of more selection points later if Glowforge decides it’s worth persuing.