Yeah, I was wondering how your brother/sister felt about it!
My BIL once gave my kids train whistles. On vacation. With a long car ride home. His kids are older, so my revenge may take awhile, but it will come…
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I received a new GT2 pulley from Amazon and got it installed.
Having purchased the 3 pack of vibration dampers I thought I’d throw one on the extruder but after many frustrating hours trying to get good prints I yanked it. I couldn’t get solid prints, they’d crumble when I pulled them off the bed. So pulled the damper, I then had to up the extrusion amount, for some reason the factory settings are almost 5% low (pushing 95mm of filament but turning 100mm). I upped the extrusion EEPROM setting to 95.1 from 93 and now getting consistent 1:1 filament output, this was after aluminum extruder upgrade along with the included gear, not sure if it’s slightly smaller than factory or not I didn’t measure it. Having the damper attached didn’t provide stable pressure on the filament, you could see the shaft move when releasing the arm. It IS a bit louder but still quieter than all the fans.
I’ve got the EZABL mini coming which will require flashing a bootloader so I’ll look at making the EEPROM setting permanent and not having to add it to the start script in S3D.
What speeds have been successful with this thing? I’ve gotten great .2mm prints at 60mm/s which is slower than my FFCP with dual heads. I’m guessing moving the bed isn’t quite as stable as X/Y head movement so I’m a little disappointed in the speed so far. Anyone try cranking it up to 80mm/s? Bowden seems a little quirky, 4mm extraction is quite a bit slower than 1mm too. I guess one has to pay for speed in the FDM world.
I had to up one of mine from 93 to 95.8 and the other all the way to 104; for some reason the gear on that one is slightly smaller.
I could have sworn that I was able to save the EEPROM setting before flashing the firmware. I’ll need to get my third E3 setup to test before I flash that one.
Hmm. Looks like this thread didn’t get reset (still set to close in a few days), but the other one did. Anyone else want to post in support and revive my thread about this? 
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I’ve been wondering about how they determine when to close a thread automatically. Is it every new thread is set to close after a set time? And then if enough people keep posting that time is reset?
See:
The Prusa has built in activated charcoal filtration
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It didn’t seem to work on this thread. The Woodchucks thread reset itself, but this one still says it will close.
Threads in the Everything Else folder are set to expire when no one has posted for 30 days. A few threads, this one included, don’t seem to be obeying the rule.
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I have been able to run up to about 60 mm/sec max on my CR-10S. I am not sure the exact model you are using, but I think that’s about as good as you are going to get with decent results. If you are having issues with those dampeners you can also get something to stiffen them up on Thingiverse. Though I don’t know too many people running them on the extruderes.
If you want higher speed and good quality, I don’t think anything Creality makes is going to get you there. I will say that I prefer the Ender 3 and the CR-10 mini to the larger CR-10. I think the weight of the build plate and the design of the stepper motors / belts and v-wheels leave a lot to be desired. I like the design of the Prusa mk3 (I built one of those, had an mk2 that I bought pre-built) and I get significantly better results at higher speeds. But you’re also paying a ton more for that machine.
One other thing- you should be able to save settings to your firmware using the M500 command. You can run individual gcode commands directly to the printer if you are connected over usb with either Octoprint or S3D directly (or other software). If you are going to be running an EZABL, take a look at the TH3d unified firmware, it makes setting things up very easily, especially if you find mainstream Marlin daunting. This link gives some good examples of using the M500 commands. If you are still running stock, I recommend upgrading right away to something else because thermal runaway is disabled by default, and you’ll want that to help prevent a potential fire.
Thanks @dan for reopening this thread.
Of course, I’ve been slowly printing upgrade for the batch of printers I’ve purchased over the last couple of months, and in my haste yesterday, managed to short out the control board on one of the Ender 3s. I accidentally pulled a motor cable out while it was powered on.
I had purchased an upgraded board for dual extrusion, to add to one of the CR10s, but now I’m trying to put it in the Ender 3 to get that machine back up and running. There are some differences in wiring that I now have to deal with.
I’m still really enjoying these printers. The quality of prints are really good.
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Ok, my first real complaint about these printers. I had seen complaints online about the power supplies, but took those complaints with a grain of salt. Until… one of them burned up on me today. Fortunately, there was no damage to the printer circuit board, but I’m going to be replacing all of them with Meanwell PSUs to be safe.
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Just wanted to add an update.
Finally got a 3D printer that’s only fiddly’ on par with the Glowforge.
I added a (REAL) Prusa I3 Mk 3 this weekend, The kit came in on Thursday evening, I stayed up until midnight assembling it. It’s a real kit, not some of the ‘quick-builds’ available. When I fired up for the first time - nothing. Troubleshooting is something I do for a living, so I rechecked connections carefully. Problem solved. Powers up okay.
This thing does a self-test. It located a problem with assembly. The included manual(s) pointed to a fix. done! Let me tell you that with several kits under my belt, THIS is the very best documentation I’ve seen on a 3D printer, at least TWO orders of magnitude better than any I’ve worked with previously.
First print quality was flawless using files already prepped by Prusa. Subsequent files I prepped myself were equally great.
Of course there’s a down-side - the kit’s $750. for the same money you can buy three lesser printers. Been there, done that… Like I said - technical hobbyist and troubleshooter, and I’ve got a couple of Ender 3’s running well. I thought they were fantastic. This Prusa has realigned my standards.
Is it a beginner’s kit? Other than the assembly - it comes with the tools - I’d say yes. As for the assembly, the manual is the BEST I’ve seen, and there are even better files at a well-organized corporate website.
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Yes… Prusa mk3 is really the best you can buy under $1000! I have had many 3d printers, including a Prusa i3 mk2, the Prusa i3 mk3, a few custom built DIY printers, a Makerbot, and also 2 different flavors of the Creality printers (CR-10 and CR-10 Mini). I would say the Prusa beats the lot of them, mainly because it is so good out of the box. If you are willing to put a lot of time and expense in upgrades, the other ones can usually get pretty good quality as well. But hands down, the Prusa wins! The support is also top notch (chat help any time of the day) and worth the extra cost over the others. Most of the Prusa is all about the same level of equipment (chinese motors, chinese psu, chinese bearings, etc.) - it’s just done in a really good package, and they tend to QC all the components before they send them out. They also are the ones that are innovating first (eg, the new flexible/magnetic/heated bed with PEI or powdercoat steel), but are soon copied/cloned.
Glad to hear it’s working well for you!
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Any chance you have a link? Happy to go through an affiliate link if I decide to buy.
For which item; the power supply?
Yes, please. 
This is the one that I use. I use it on my CNCs too. It won’t fit in the box where the outlet sits, so I’ll be printing a replacement.
Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTJE3L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yRq4Bb1SRR9XK
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