If it ever freezes (before using) it’s worthless for any structural integrity. Not a problem for lots of people, but for those of us who life in the snow zone and keep it in the garage, it’s an issue.
There are lots of folks (including Gorilla) making CA glues now in large enough containers to be useful vs those tiny little crazy glue tubes.
If you use CA, get some kicker or accelerator too. It’s really useful when you can’t or won’t be able to hold the joint together for the 30 seconds or so that it takes to set. Kicker will make it set instantly. It can be sprayed on afterward or applied to one side with the CA applied to the other. Once mated they’re stuck together.
I actually prefer the little tubes… I use it infrequently enough that the amount of waste I’d get from a big container curing before I can use it up is more than the extra cost of buying lots of small tubes.
That’s because you haven’t got a Glowforge in your basement Once you have a laser you’re using a ton of materials and glue. The little tubes are okay but the first time you have to use 3 of them to finish assembling a project is when you start looking for the larger tubes
All totally true. That is why I linked to Fastcaps CA above, it is optimized for wood and comes in a number of viscosities. Everyone should have no less than two viscosities of CA around. Kinda stupid expensive though but hey, it works like no other CA I’ve tried.
You can also add your own filler to CA glue to modify its properties. You can make it thicker like a gel, or like a no-sag paste (like peanut butter consistency). You can make it hard/tough as a rock with fumed silica, strong by adding milled fibers, or an easy-sanding filler with lightweight fairing filler or even talc powder.
Perhaps a helpful PRU borrower, who has access to Proofgrade materials already, would be willing to set up an experiment to compare different glue strategies? CA, Tightbond III, with pins, without pins, sanded, more/fewer tabs, etc. Getting all the permutations would be a bit of a challenge (16 combinations could be devised with just a few variables), but at least this test wouldn’t have to have as strong of a “results are subject to change as Glowforge tweaks the settings” disclaimer.
They are resin fillers normally used with polyester and epoxy resins in composites work, but they also work with other types of adhesives.
It might be easier to post a few links to the materials, as the sellers have short descriptions.
Personally, I mostly use the West Systems fillers because any local West Marine will carry it and I generally can’t plan far enough ahead of myself to order it elsewhere for delivery when I need it. However they are quite proud of it, averaging $16/$20 for a 1Qt canister.
The US Composites link below has the best pricing. This is where I order all my epoxy resin and carbon fiber supplies.
Are there tips you could share for how to do that without causing the glue to cure prematurely? (I’ve always assumed that as soon as it comes out of the nozzle the time is strictly limited). Or do you just use one of the longer-curing formulations and work fast?
On the topic of CA glue: be careful opening a new bottle if you are at altitude.
Several years ago a good friend was over at my place, which was situated at 9,240’ above sea level. I don’t remember what he needed to glue, but when he snipped the tip off of the bottle, the pressure difference caused CA glue to squirt violently across the room, and onto my TV screen and DVD player.
He was mortified, I was annoyed, but luckily it was a very small, pretty cheap TV… and the glue dried clear.
But man, if it had been a nice TV, or a new computer or something…
Anyway, just be aware of where the bottle is pointing when you open it.
Up here we have condensing for a couple months in the summer, and then super dry in the winter. (Except that if you have a storage cupboard backing against an outside wall you have to worry about the frost…)