Advice: Gluing Proofgrade Solid Woods

If it ever freezes (before using) it’s worthless for any structural integrity. Not a problem for lots of people, but for those of us who life in the snow zone and keep it in the garage, it’s an issue.

There are lots of folks (including Gorilla) making CA glues now in large enough containers to be useful vs those tiny little crazy glue tubes.

If you use CA, get some kicker or accelerator too. It’s really useful when you can’t or won’t be able to hold the joint together for the 30 seconds or so that it takes to set. Kicker will make it set instantly. It can be sprayed on afterward or applied to one side with the CA applied to the other. Once mated they’re stuck together.

5 Likes

I actually prefer the little tubes… I use it infrequently enough that the amount of waste I’d get from a big container curing before I can use it up is more than the extra cost of buying lots of small tubes.

2 Likes

And if you go to flea markets or similar, the little tubes in bulk are maybe 10-30 cents each.

1 Like

That’s because you haven’t got a Glowforge in your basement :slight_smile: Once you have a laser you’re using a ton of materials and glue. The little tubes are okay but the first time you have to use 3 of them to finish assembling a project is when you start looking for the larger tubes :smile:

5 Likes

You’ll need a large bottle or two. (And it’s a lot cheaper to buy it that way.)

For CA, I use Bob’s:

10 Likes

All totally true. That is why I linked to Fastcaps CA above, it is optimized for wood and comes in a number of viscosities. Everyone should have no less than two viscosities of CA around. Kinda stupid expensive though but hey, it works like no other CA I’ve tried.

3 Likes

Really wish I hadn’t just stocked up on the Bob’s. Maybe I’ll spring for a kit when that’s gone.

1 Like

You can also add your own filler to CA glue to modify its properties. You can make it thicker like a gel, or like a no-sag paste (like peanut butter consistency). You can make it hard/tough as a rock with fumed silica, strong by adding milled fibers, or an easy-sanding filler with lightweight fairing filler or even talc powder.

4 Likes

Yup, these are the bomb @Jules.
Easily one of the essential items in any diorama, model or figurine making kit.

1 Like

Sounds like something you know enough about to expand on.

It would be nice to only buy thin and gel and then thicken thin to suit.

1 Like

Perhaps a helpful PRU borrower, who has access to Proofgrade materials already, would be willing to set up an experiment to compare different glue strategies? CA, Tightbond III, with pins, without pins, sanded, more/fewer tabs, etc. Getting all the permutations would be a bit of a challenge (16 combinations could be devised with just a few variables), but at least this test wouldn’t have to have as strong of a “results are subject to change as Glowforge tweaks the settings” disclaimer.

Here’s a couple videos for inspiration…

10 Likes

They are resin fillers normally used with polyester and epoxy resins in composites work, but they also work with other types of adhesives.

It might be easier to post a few links to the materials, as the sellers have short descriptions.

Personally, I mostly use the West Systems fillers because any local West Marine will carry it and I generally can’t plan far enough ahead of myself to order it elsewhere for delivery when I need it. :slight_smile: However they are quite proud of it, averaging $16/$20 for a 1Qt canister.

The US Composites link below has the best pricing. This is where I order all my epoxy resin and carbon fiber supplies.

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/resin_fillers_dyes

10 Likes

I had no idea that epoxy fillers could be used with CA! I have some micro balloons on hand that I’ll have to give a try.

2 Likes

Bookmarked! Thanks everyone! Can’t wait to glue my first project.

1 Like

Are there tips you could share for how to do that without causing the glue to cure prematurely? (I’ve always assumed that as soon as it comes out of the nozzle the time is strictly limited). Or do you just use one of the longer-curing formulations and work fast?

1 Like

Use longer cure formulations, small batches, and activator to control the cure times.

CA glue also cures faster in the presence of water/moisture so if you have any way of controlling the working environment such as air conditioning or dehumidifying, that can help.

I live in the desert and CA glue seems to take forever to cure unless you use the activators.

4 Likes

On the topic of CA glue: be careful opening a new bottle if you are at altitude.
Several years ago a good friend was over at my place, which was situated at 9,240’ above sea level. I don’t remember what he needed to glue, but when he snipped the tip off of the bottle, the pressure difference caused CA glue to squirt violently across the room, and onto my TV screen and DVD player.
He was mortified, I was annoyed, but luckily it was a very small, pretty cheap TV… and the glue dried clear.
But man, if it had been a nice TV, or a new computer or something…

Anyway, just be aware of where the bottle is pointing when you open it.

6 Likes

Ha! I live in the deep south and it tends to cure as it leaves the bottle.

7 Likes

wow, really? Where is that?

Up here we have condensing for a couple months in the summer, and then super dry in the winter. (Except that if you have a storage cupboard backing against an outside wall you have to worry about the frost…)

1 Like