It basically worked OK, but there was a hitch in the trigger so I had to disassemble it in some new ways and even clean corrosion off some small parts…
… but now as far as I can tell, it works fine. I have to learn how to choose the right PSI and thin paints and all that, but I have an even pattern and a smooth dual trigger.
The Golden paint is definitely nicer than thinned craft store acrylic… but for the price difference, I will make do. I only have the skill to do solid coats anyway. This is a way nicer brush than I can make use of but I already can’t see living without this kind of trigger.
I think this is slightly different than other suggestions: What about laser cutting the keytags from stock that is the “fill” color, then painting the tags on all sides (including the edges) with the outside color (somebody said Kylon Fusion for better plastic bonding?) and then laser engraving the paint “away” to reveal the fill color again?
Okay, now I am having second thoughts on this. Will the laser boil the paint before etching/engraving the surface? That could spread out beyond the laser path and be ugly. Also, it’s a real downside to have to remove protective paper wraps from the plastic too early…
Could you provide some guidance on the purchase of an airbrush system minus the compressor? I am considering an Iwata Eclipse CS or Neo but i also need help to choose a hose and the adapters to interface with my 1hp 2 gallon oil less compressor (IM fittings). I’m assuming multiple air brushes become a necessity eventually for multiple color projects. I prefer to make purchases once and buy wisely vs buy cheap and replace often but please feel free to advise if the brush choices are not the right ones. I’m also trying to avoid mixing brands and having to cross adapt hoses and fittings.
Anyway, I’ll thank you in advance for your time and any direction you could offer.
Small winkle - I’m in Canada so mail order may be my only access to some of the more popular US outlets.
The attached photo is a proof of concept for a friend. I would like to give this type of plaque more color shading etc.
I love the eclipse brushes! The neo is ok except the nozzle is so tiny it’s hard to clean out and can get lost easily…lol
I also use several Omni aribrushes by Thayer-Chandler (great alternative to the eclipse and a bit less expensive. The only difference you’d find would be in high detail illustration use.)
For compressor attachments, use a standard air compressor quick connect. All the airbrushes have a 1/4 fitting on the hose. Eventually when you get multiple brushes, there are manifolds you can pick up at some of the hardware stores… not sure which ones in Canada but search under air tools- manifold.
Make sure you have a moisture trap on your compressor! Can’t stress this enough… water in the lines will ruin your artwork…
Feel free to pick my brain with any other questions!
Thanks for the quick response!
Moisture Trap;
I know nothing about moisture traps. Is this at the compressor end or upstream of the airbrush? Is there a size or make / model preferred? Not sure if this is something I source from the compressor manufacturer or the airbrush manufacturer end.
Paint;
I was thinking of sticking with Creatix / Wicked brand of paint (water based)
What is the difference with Illustration quality paint? Does it contain more pigment / richer colors hence the premium price? I see it as a separate category of paint on websites but don’t understand the difference.
These are standard in the air compressor arena so you can get them from wherever you got your compressor. Everyone should have one on their compressor
One thing Kathy didn’t mention is you don’t want an oiler in the line and if you have had one, you want to use new clean hoses for the airbrush. I have an auto-oiler on my compressor so I don’t need to separately add a drop or two of oil to my tools. But that’s as bad as water for paints.
I have my water trap as the first thing coming out of the compressor and then a manifold and then the oiler. That makes all air coming out dry but gives me an auto-oiled branch and an oil-free branch. I use different color hoses - blue for oil-free and orange or red for oiled air. Never cross-connect the hoses so you don’t get the oil-free one contaminated.
If you are using an oil-less compressor there’s no need for oil I’ve never used oil ever. As far as the illustration Ink it’s an ink not a paint so it’s a lot thinner less PSI to spray but it’s generally translucent. They do make inline moisture traps in the hose but I find that they don’t hold enough so I always get one on the compressor side that holds a lot of water cuz it’s very humid here sometimes
Hi,
Thanks for the info!
Mine is a oil-less compressor (Rolair JC10) which I use primarily to pressurize a pressure pot for my HVLP spray system. No idea why I never encountered / considered an air dryer though particularly when I can see the moisture that is released from the compressor tank when I empty it after use!!! What was I thinking - not!
I will make this a priority for sure!
Thanks again
Take care
Mark
Hi,
Humid here too so will make sure I add it to the shopping list!
Thanks
And thank you for the illustrator ink vs paint explanation!
Do you recommend / have used a particular brand of paint that you prefer??
Not for paint but if you use the compressor for other tools (like impact wrenches) you want to oil the tool regularly - the manual way is to put a couple of drops in the air intake of the tool before you use it. The automatic way is to add an oiler to the line and it dispenses a tiny bit of oil whenever you use the tool. Since I’m too lazy to pull the oil off the shelf, drop some in the tool and then connect it, I just have an oiler that once or twice a year I add oil to.
