How can I be so thick, Part 2 (Pro-Tube?)

If I understand the cooling even a little, ambient temp could make a huge difference to running time without cooldown, because the efficiency of cooling is (mostly) proportional to degrees above ambient. With peltier a different number of degrees, but still. So the tube isn’t going to increase its temp at a constant rate, but at some kind of rate that slows the hotter it gets (relative to ambient).

If ambient is low (60s-70s) you might be onto the nearly-flat part of the temperature increase curve before you hit maximum operating temp, but if ambient is high, you might still be on the steep part of the curve.

There are probably gf’s that are instrumented to measure that temperature increase under various conditions.

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By the time you get your production unit, the tube will match the product you ordered.

We’ve actually kitted a number of prerelease units with a few different features of Pro units so that we can ensure they work.

No, building machines configured-to-order is a whole different thing; our line isn’t set up for it. It’s just a way for us to validate some of the suppliers, equipment, and materials in the field.

Like anything in the manual, this is subject to change. Lots of testing going on that may adjust these numbers.

No, but email support for an update!

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That’s a really good idea. Great way to maximize your return on clock/calendar time available.

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I sure hope they work @Dan!!! :-)))

Ok, so it actually almost made it. We just won’t know if you have a 40w or 45w tube.

In theory then, I wonder if 16mm or even 18mm could be cut in 2 passes. Is that something you could possibly try if you have some of those thicknesses in hardwood lying around?

Not sure if 2 passes causes more charring or messes up the cut edge (anybody know?) but being able to cut those thicknesses, even on the small GF bed size, opens many more possibilities.

I don’t have the link handy but have referenced it before and tube upgrades were deemed to be "in the hopper/hipper)

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I don’t have a Pro tube for sure. Mine was one of the first prereleases. Two passes in wood gives wider kerf at some settings. The small set of squares I cut in oak shows that in the far left square. I just havent bothered much beyond 1/4 inch which it does make it through in one pass for walnut.

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When all is said and done…after we get our own…please send me that list…

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Thanks @marmak3261, that helps to know.

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Pretty sure mine isnt even from the minor leagues lol. We’ll just say losers bracket tube is what ive got lol

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You got the built on Friday before Holiday “Meh, good enough for government work” unit.

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Yeah, but high school baseball is so to watch!:baseball:

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Can you please add degrees centigrade to the manual or those of us who use metric.:slight_smile:

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Is this a madlib? lol

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You mean the 99% of the global population but only 10% of GF sales? I’m with you on this

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Actually I think it is more like 95% and 20%.

I was surprised to see GF uses inches and Fahrenheit because I think 3D printers mostly use mm and Celsius even in the US.

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Every time I read something like this, i remember this very funny reddit thread https://www.reddit.com/r/funny/comments/4ionbq/the_metric_system_vs_imperial/

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We should change it all to an absolute scale: Vote for Kevin, class president. or was that Kelvin. :stuck_out_tongue:

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Yes being a Brit old enough to remember decimalisation I can still cope with inches, pints and pounds, etc but I never use them for anything technical. I get drunk with pints of beer usually but sometimes with litres of wine.

Fahrenheit doesn’t mean much to me, especially when outside of normal room temperatures, like melting plastic.

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I am 61 and remember the years the US tried to convert…now I gotta do it myself…except the pints part…sticking with my Guinness Pints…thank you…lol

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