We’re cutting 1/16 cast acrylic from canal but we’re noticing that the edges are beginning to burn.
I’ve tried most of the settings on the forums I’ve seen on this topic but am not able to pinpoint an issue or solution.
I’ve tried mask on both sides, mask on one side, and no mask but can’t seem to get a perfect cut.
Wondering if anyone has advice on settings or what the issue could possibly be. We have GF Pro model.
Support is not going to be able to help with issues on non-Proofgrade materials, I’m afraid…(they’re not allowed by legal.)
But…when I cut paper I apply a layer of wide sticky masking tape down on the grid first…it blocks the air intake underneath the design that can cause flashback.
Second thing…mask it with a different mask…that kind tends to burn. (Might be waxed. You want unwaxed plain paper masking on the back and the front.)
Last…you might need to speed up the cut. The settings are likely overclocked for material that thin.
Do some test cuts at higher speed to find the right setting. (I just use a little 1/2" square tucked into a corner…doesn’t have to waste a lot of material.)
Thank you!!
I might be misunderstanding here, we have 3M wide masking tape. Are you saying that you apply that to the crumb tray or on the acrylic itself? I appreciate your reply so much!
Yep! I just brayer it down, sticky side against the grid, and it works as a base for several cuts…it blocks the air…
It gets cut up but it’s easy to just peel off when you’re done, and it doesn’t go anywhere because the material is holding it down.
Oh, and 3M tape is pretty expensive…you can get much cheaper 12" wide vinyl application tape on Amazon. (It’s paper tape used for vinyl application in sign making.)
Amazing!! We will look into that tape. Do you do this for every material you cut or just acrylic?
We just tried to cut another file with the same masking but different design, no issue.
Just paper and thin acrylic or plastic…especially if I don’t want to mask it first.
(You can also buy a Seklema mat, but that is pretty pricey.)
Your first design is very simple so the machine can go full bore, the 2nd being much more complicated it slows down for each change in direction and the programming they have to not overburn corners is probably stepping in to lower the power.
Two things that might help, separately or together:
(1) Do two lower power passes instead of one pass.
(2) Raise the material off the tray with e.g. some strips of scrap material beyond the area you’re going to cut. Make sure you have the steps ordered so that the inner parts cut before the outer part, so it doesn’t fall out of the sheet until the final big section is cut.
I have moved this to Beyond the Manual so that you can discuss non-Proofgrade settings.
To put it simply: you are overpowering your cut and need to do a material test. Trying to guess or do one off little squares will be slow and inaccurate.
Read #6 here, it’s all you need:
