this.
On my pro, i would rather cut it twice in 1/8th and double up vs cutting 1 time with 1/4.
my xtool does a better job on 1/4 but since my raw inventory is mostly 1/8th, i have not spent too much time working with on 1/4.
this.
On my pro, i would rather cut it twice in 1/8th and double up vs cutting 1 time with 1/4.
my xtool does a better job on 1/4 but since my raw inventory is mostly 1/8th, i have not spent too much time working with on 1/4.
In general good walnut is almost scorch-proof. Like every wood it varies somewhat, and I have had some that was very problematic but I have had some that could be engraved or cut at 100 and full power with little char.
So I gave this a try with a small bump up to 120. Worked on a small square so trying it now on my pattern (Welcome Sign with Sunflowers). I have found that occasionally test cuts behave better than the actually pattern so I am hoping I still have success.
Thanks to all!
Itâs important for your tests to have straight lines, corners, and curves to simulate all the different ways the head can move, because YES!
Did you ever find the correct settings? I just ordered the maple truflat and I love the color and finish of the material but like you have experienced I am having a hard time cutting the material from a slightly more complicated design.
Try two passes with 200 speed on full power. I had good success with that. I did mask it too.
From above:
@bradmulders has a pro as he mentioned earlier:
So @kyle.grimland22 which machine do you have?
I know that this is an older post but I wanted to educate anyone that wants to use the Truflat product. FYI, I have an first gen GF pro.
Any MDF will cut dirtier (leave more crud everywhere) and need to be hotter than other ply, and cutting all the way through not guaranteed, particularly if not PG. I had quit using the PG material until they came out with the âlightâ plywood that does not have MDF and cuts much easier and cleaner.