Laminating thin boards into something awesome

1/8" will do fine to give relief. Might depend on the slope. So a fjord might need thicker materials to represent the altitude or depth per 100 feet but a gentle sloping terrain like Kansas would represent with thinner materials. Elevation change is what im thinking of. I’m trying to picture this in my mind.

Obviously wood is an amazingly beautiful material but I love doing lasercut laminated chipboard.

That’s a very clever idea. It will slow print time dramatically (rasters are slower than vectors, generally) but if that’s not an issue then it’s a great solution to improve glue strength.

That said, my glue joints in wood rarely fail at the wood/glue interface.

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As a hobbyist, I’m ok with the long laser time as I would be shooting for a quality glue up. When it comes time to glue however, should be like pouring syrup on waffles :smile:

I had no idea that such a gadget existed but I’m sure forgers will find a use for this magnetic nut spinner thingy. The Lamello Invis

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Way too expensive for daily use but I can certainly see that special use case where these would shine.

That Lamello looks cool… I cringe when I think about the potential for over/under tightening, and the potential for lockup with no access… but still… cool.

It would seem trivial for them to make it impossible to over-tighten. The magnets will only pull on each other with so much force before they slip. So make sure that the metal in the screw is strong enough to handle the full force possible from the magnet with no material between driver and screw.

Main issue I would see (other than cost) is heat. If you hit the curie point of the magnet in your hidden joint, you will never get that screw out without ripping the joint apart.

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I am 100% certain I’d stare at the joint a year later when needing to take it apart, shrug, and say “Weird that I glued it instead of screwed it” and then pry it apart only to discover the Invis connectors inside.

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I am embarrassed to say that I had never considered this. With bolt holes pre-cut, you could be finished in minutes after cutting.

While you get full points for your physics, I have a feeling that if you are getting your furniture above 180F on a regular basis then you might run into other issues first. :neutral_face:

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I did neglect to consider what the curie point actually is for the magnets in question. Bah, silly practicalities. And that would be 180 F INSIDE the wood, which insulates passably well in most cases.

However, if you can get your wooden furniture up to 180F, it will make it much easier to bend it into new & interesting shapes.:smile:

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My brother uses Titebond 2 to make multi-wood blanks for use on the lathe. This is an example of a mug he made for me.
The body of the cup is just glued together, nothing special. The handle is added after.
He uses a cheap chip brush to spread the glue on, then clamps it together until it dries and has never had a glued bond break on the lathe.

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