If you want to scale it to an exact size or by a specific percentage, the current best option is to open the SVG in a design program (like Inkscape, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, etc.), resize and, export/save at the desired size.
You can select all the parts and scale them at once in the Glowforge UI by click-and-dragging on a corner of the selection rectangle but, that is purely visual.
Ooh - if you haven’t glued it yet, if you cut the bottom layer from a clear acrylic your disappointment with the red might go away…
Unfortunately, no. Being new I ordered the wrong stuff from JP Plus. In reality, it might be ok but I added an adhesive backing to the acrylic thinking it was masking. so there is a white film on the bottom of each acrylic gear. I tried goop off and the recommended wipes from amazon and neither will remove the adhesive well enough to rotate. Even tried sanding it off. So for now I left the white paper on and it works for now. Still a work in progress.
hey guys…does anyone remember a conversation that had a link to a laser file for a masking dispenser?? Because I swear I thought I downloaded it. And for the life of me… I can not find the convo
This one?
I’m sorry if i missed this, but is the material 1/8"?
look great. I made a clear one, with all 6 colors, to include colorless. my 2yr old destroyed it… but the acrylic looks great!!!
Looks great though!!!
That’s what folks have typically been using. The original design is pretty agnostic about thickness, since the layers are all parallel and glued together.
Some of the modifications that add an axle piece would have to be adapted based on thickness.
thank you!
These look great, I am going to have to try out a couple of the designs!
Thanks for sharing all of the resources!! It really makes the difference for the new GF owners.
thank you so much i needed this for games!!!
Welcome to the forum, and thanks for the modifications.
Could you please help me. I have tried 3 times to make this. I tried yours and the original person that posted as well as someone else that had modified the file. The gears won’t turn, and I don’t know if I am doing something wrong. Thanks, Kathy
@trinsaunt: I’m sorry you are having problems. If the gears are not turning at all—or they are “catching” sometimes—I have two suggestions:
(1) It is very important to make sure that absolutely no glue gets on the bottom or top surfaces of the six gear wheels. A very light coating of wood glue (or superglue) on the outside edge of the center spacer ring is all that you should need,. Make sure there is no glue anywhere near the inside edge of the center spacer “ring”. Also make sure that you mate the top “wagon wheel” to the center spacer ring without smearing glue onto the area of the top “wagon wheel” that contacts the gear wheels.
(2) Because the gear wheels are the same thickness as the spacer ring (i.e., the one between the base disc and the top “wagon wheel” piece), the gears as cut can be pinched between the bottom disc and the top “wagon wheel”. Therefore I sanded the bottom of each gear wheel (including the middle one) to reduce their thickness. I did this with a sheet of medium grit sand paper laid flat on my workbench. I used a micrometer to ensure that each gear had the same reduced thickness—removing maybe 0.2-0.3 mm. You can dry-fit everything to test the gear play before you glue and clamp everything.
I hope that helps! 
@trinsaunt: Another thought: If you use the “toothpick” axle method like I did you should be able to spin all the gears with the toothpick before you glue down the top “wagon wheel”. In other words, glue (or press fit) the toothpick axle to the center gear and then make sure it rotates freely in the base (i.e., with the other gears) before moving on. If the toothpick axle is binding in the bottom base socket (i.e., hole), sand it as required to allow it to spin freely.
I think I didn’t explain it right, I haven’t even got to the point of using any glue. When I place the six gears into the spacer ring and try to move them by hand they don’t move around.
