For anyone interested, I have the answer to my questions earlier.
To give everyone the full run down, I have been reading the posts around 1/4 baltic birch for the last few weeks trying several of the different suggesting and still running into inconsistent cuts due to the wood I am using.
I had been trying multiple passes at several different speeds, even going as high as 10+ passes at higher speed to try to overcome the issue of not quite punching through in 5% +/- if the entire path.
Last place I left of before this post was to keep dialing speed down on a single pass to 105 which almost had me there but was too inconsistent. I tried 100 speed and cooked.
This led me to the question as to if anyone had a suggested laser power % that would be slightly more aggressive than 105 @ 100.
I was finding small, simply test patterns inadequate as they would often miss the pins and knots that were causing issues and although they cut fantastically on that small scale, once the full size file was in the glow forge the law of averages tossed me an issue and I couldnāt successfully complete the required cut.
After about 6 hours of trial and error I have been able to identify a speed setting that produces very acceptable results in 1/4 Baltic Birch even when it hits these inconsistencies.
I donāt think any other posts have considered or suggested this but if you are struggle with 1/4 in Baltic Birch. I have had success with:
100 Speed
86 Power Settings
Focal Point (0.21) on (0.23) Material
I found this was the most consistent getting through imperfect materials without becoming overly smoky or causing any char.
I will continue to dial it in over the next few dozen cuts tweaking the 86 power up or down slightly based on results.
So for everyone considering multiple pass as your only option, please consider taking the laser power down too. It saved me on this on.
To reiterate what has been already posted here and countless other threads. Cutting successfully depends on a ton of variables that you might not be accounting for but believe me it makes a difference.
Machine issues first. Are the optics clean including the lense, the Windows, the mirror. Are the fans clean and working up to speed. Are the cameras and the sensor for focusing clean. Are your connections of the head and gantry clean. If you took it apart to clean it is the lens back in the right way?
Material issues specifically dealing with plywood. Is the thickness consistent. Are the plies consistent thickness how are voids repaired? Wood patch vs bondo. What glues where used to bond the plies? How does the glue react to laser beam? Is it flat? Wood moisture content? Where has this ply been stored by you and previously by supplier i.e. Conditioned and moisture controlled? Are your missed cuts along or against the grain? Are they by hidden repairs or knots in the wood. Are you masking one or both sides.
Environmental issues. Temperature and moisture where material was stored and at time of cutting. Was the ply allowed to acclimate. Is the temp and humidity allowed to fluctuate. Is your vent allowing outside air back in when forge is not in use.
I am sure I left out a ton of variables but that is why GF prefers and supplies MDF cored ply. It is a consistent and predictable material.
All that to say that for my supply of 1/4 Baltic birch ply B/BB grade not China made cuts beautifully at full power and depending on the other variables anywhere between 110 and 135 speed. No charring but definitely some cleaning required of the edge to get rid off smoke as well as resin and glue residue. Which brings to mind a whole lot of where did you source your material and whatās in it.
So while I am glad you found a setting that worked for you today. Be mindful that any of the variables listed and possibly missed will cause it to not work in the future.
Try 170 speed, full power, 2 passes. Measure you material with calipers. Set the thickness and focal appropriately via the caliper reading. 170 at full power in a single pass gets me through 3mm baltic birch ply in 1 pass.
Full power
145 speed
2 passes
Set focus at .15" to .12"
This is where REAL air assist would be great. Real air assist comes down from a nozzle around the lense and is a focused stream straight down. Not a computer fan blowing across the surface.