Thanks! I tried to clean it up before posting it… lol
But looking at your attached SVG, I think you might have made a mistake editing it somewhere along the way. Not sure why the centimeter rule is longer than the inches, since the original code I wrote was only designed to do as many centimeters in length as you define in inches (if that makes sense).
Edit: Ah, I think I know what you did. Don’t change the “RulerWidth” or “RulerHeight” variables directly… change the W/H variables. I should have moved those two out of that top block, into the actual code rather than leaving them in a place someone might edit.
These are the only changes I think you need to make:
// RULER DIMENSIONS TO CREATE
// I recommend NO LESS than 3/4-inch high for 6-inch wide rulers
// and NO MORE than 1+1/4-inch high for 12-inch and longer rulers.
W=17; H=1+1/4;
// ENGRAVE CODE (don't render with CUT code)
// Set all objects as NO LINE, SOLID FILL in Inkscape
addInchMarks();
addMilliMarks();
// Commented out to ignore the logo and bling
// addLogo();
// addBling();
Ha! I probably shouldn’t mention that I’m tweaking a version of my code even further to add 1/32th inch ticks along the 0-1 inch range, for extra accuracy where probably no one needs it…
Should be a right click on the image og the image of the ruler and save as. It’s an SVG.
I put 17+1/4 as the ruler length because I wanted to use the full extent of the available workspace and test it out. Would that be the correct way to enter that measuremement.
@jamesdhatch can verify this, but from the picture of the ruler along side the metal ruler, you can judge if it is correct or not. I kept saying that paralax enters into the photo because the metal ruler is lower than the wood. If the photo is taken overhead centered on the meter, the last ticks will be off because of paralax. People laughed at me and said the Glowforge was off. The ruler I printed is pretty accurate.
Well these are the two portions of the same image that I based my statement on:
…
So the metal ruler might be slightly bent and curving upwards (the shadow looks slightly wider around 8.5" than it does at 4") but I’d expect that to make the metal’s 8.5" to be less than the wood’s 8.5"… it’s clearly after it.
I have a hard time seeing how parallax can be used to account for such a closely placed scale, myself. But to be totally fair to the argument, that metal ruler should be pressed firmly flat to eliminate convex curving.
I don’t know about @jamesdhatch’s ruler, AND I don’t have a Westcott metal ruler for comparison, but the tale of the tape for the run of the mill carpenter’s measuring tape over 17" is spot on visually.
I think that’s because of the kerf cut on the end (0). If I line up the 1" tick on both rulers the wooden one’s end is to the right of the 0 tick on the metal one - right next to it not covering it. If I line up the edge of the wooden one to the 0 tick then the 8 1/2 tick is to the left a bit vs the one on the metal ruler.
Hmmm… if you used the 17" ruler I attached, then the kerf I had set for it was 0.15mm left of the wood ruler’s 0 tick. So if it’s shorter than the metal’s edge – and one of the reasons I love the Westcott rulers is that they file them right down to 0 themselves – then that’s probably right.
Each of the marks are 0.25mm wide, and I used a kerf spacing of 0.15mm… so if the wood ruler edge is coming up on the right side of the metal’s 0-mark, then I can probably increase the kerf to about 0.30mm.
Ahem: A centimetre (international spelling as used by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures; symbol cm) or centimeter (American spelling) is a unit of length in the metric system, equal to one hundredth of a metre, centi being the SI prefix for a factor of 1⁄100.
