I hear you. Something in me though… I just can’t toss those last 3 pieces haha.
Thank you for that info. I was looking at that exact blade, so this helps a lot.
I agree completely. If I am making many copies of something, I will do that. If I am making one, I just keep my fingers crossed and deal with problems when they happen.
Agreed.
I’m the same way, but then I did math on actual cost of these small parts I am talking about. At the rate I get my BB ply for, it was literally < $0.10. My hourly rate is orders of magnitude more than that.
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Problem is, what if that cut comes at the end of a VERY long job?
I just had a situation where a double pass on 1/4" BB failed in one spot, almost 2" long. Not only did it not make it thru, it didn’t even make it 1/4 of the way thru. Obviously, that means a void in the core was filled with something non-laserable.
As it happens, I was using the outer scrap to make a protective piece for shipping of the actual artwork, so I could just break off the remaining outer piece and use a utility knife to hack away at it.
The point is, the inner artwork associated with this started as an hour+ engrave, before cutting. If I’d encountered this issue on the original cut, I would have been livid (cutting it by hand wouldn’t work because the charred edge is part of this piece.
(and the “problem area” is only 1/2" or so away from that original cut! 
)
Someone else mentioned this as well, going to give it a shot later this afternoon. Thank you for the idea, all of these are helpful.
They are OK for soft stuff, but if you miss your slot on the push-back you will bend the blade and it won’t run true again, or the tip will snap off. Just make sure you accommodate the short stroke since they aren’t very long.
After I try a few tools, I’ll come back with my thoughts. For edges that I need to ‘fix’ or hack at, if I leave a non-uniform look from removing the char, I use a black stain to rub over it. I keep a small craft paint bottle with the stain at my station, works like a charm.
I am thinking more long term here as well. Solutions to help release longer connected pieces that may not have cut through where it’s worth a little time to save.
This. Oftentimes, chasing pennies will cost you dollars.
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“Penny wise, pounds foolish.”
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As I made a lot of silver jewelry back in the day I got very handy with a jewelers saw. You have to learn to always keep it vertical and always have it cutting, even in place, when making turns, but there are blades far thinner than the kerf.
However the thinner the blade the more fragile and unforgiving, so you will likely want to some of the thicker blades like 3/0 or thicker. You might have trouble staying in the cut at first, but the kerf of the blade is less than the kerf of the laser.
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