Removing soot from cut cardstock paper

I use a really soft paintbrush, and just gently brush the ash away from engraved areas. Seems to work really well.

I used the brush extensively here:

Granted this is a bit off topic and clearly you can see I didn’t bother dialing my cut settings in, hence the flashback pattern, but the ash brushing seems to really do the trick without smearing.

5 Likes

BTW, These cards look beautiful:-)! Congrats.

2 Likes

Well, I’d defer to you here, you have cut a lot of paper compared to the rest of us.

1 Like

My main problem is soot from scoring. So intricacy does not apply here, it’s just a straight line. I’ve done quite a bit of testing, and whether I do 100s/1p or 500s/20p I still end up with soot. I even tried 500s/10p x2, all sooty. This is what makes me think it’s inevitable and that I have to just deal with removing it. Could be related to my paper I guess.

EDIT: In all cases I made sure to use the minimum power that would do the job

1 Like

Would you consider doing the scoring manually, not on the GlowForge? Once you had your setup/ rhythm going, it would be a lot faster than wiping down each invitation. You could make a jig or use a straightedge, then there are many options for what to score it with, such as an embossing tool. Even a delicate dent makes for a nice fold.

2 Likes

Good call, that does sound a lot faster! Silly that I didn’t think of that, I’ve clearly never made a greeting card before haha.

Any tips on how to know the exact center to line up the ruler? I guess a custom jig wouldn’t be too hard to whip up.

1 Like

I’m a big fan of jig once, create many. Another simple approach could be to put tiny marks on your design, at the top and bottom of the fold line, to guide your straightedge. Pretty cards, btw!

1 Like

Thanks! I’ll definitely give this a try!

I put a small shop vac by my glowforge, and after every job, I give it a once over with a brush attachment, the soft bristles don’t hurt anything internally

3 Likes

Hi I’m having trouble cutting cardstock on a pro - what settings do you use? I have a basic. Was working at 300/55 but design is intricate and not cutting consistently. I used the seklema mat but still blowing…any suggestions?
Thanks!

Hi I’m trying to cut an invitation too and having trouble. Can I ask what settings you used? I have a basic. Looks like you might have used metallic stardream paper? Mine is slightly thicker. Any suggestions appreciated! Thanks!

You are in the range of settings I use for intricate cuts, typically 300/50-60, depending on specific stock and design.

For anything other than full power, Basic vs Pro should not matter. Different machines seem to have some small variation, though.

Sometimes, the same settings will go through fine for some cuts but, not others. Mostly, I see longer straight cuts going through fine with some smaller details not.

In those cases, I will usually move the problem cuts into a separate operation and, reduce the cutting speed a little and/or bump up the power a few points. I sometimes make a custom test patch out of some of the problem area to dial in the settings (rather than running the whole job over and over).

For very fine detail, it is often better to do an engrave that goes all the way through. Note that that is hard on Seklema mats. So, you might want to explore other work hold down options if you do that.

I use a rubber scraper to make sure my stock is evenly adhered to the Seklema mats. They also become less sticky as ash and other residue accumulates on the surface. I periodically wipe that off with paper towels and copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol to restore the adhesion.

I sometimes use additional hold down on the edges of stock when it is being uncooperative. Magnets are generally not recommended because they can cause problems and errors with the air assist but, thin, flat magnets on card stock, placed away from the cutting area do not cause problems in my experience.

1 Like

Thanks so much for your reply. I have done tests on a small area of the design and it seemed to work at 300/50 but when I went to do the whole design it doesn’t cut thru. Paper is 111lb coverstock. Depth set at .02 and using mat. Tried 300/45, 300/55 neither were right. I have 168 of these to cut. Any thoughts on settings or Am I doing something wrong? I did a similar project when I got my GF on Stardream and 300/55 worked perfectly without much char. This paper is a dark blue also. Thanks!

1 Like

I don’t think the depth would be .02 if it is on the Seklema mat. My Seklema mat is .08 with nothing on it.

1 Like

Part of what I was trying to convey before is that I probably can’t give you settings that will just work. Despite the interface having quantified settings, there is really a lot of variability where the rubber meets the road (or where the laser meets the paper). In particular, there are variations in speed and acceleration as the machine cuts around small shapes. The software tries to compensate to keep it even but, there is still variability.

You need to have a (metaphorical) conversation with your machine about your project. My previous suggestions were about ways to explore what might get you to a working solution.

One more for that list: I have sometimes resorted to using two lower-powered passes or, adding a second cut just outside of the kerf of the first cut to get stubborn bits to cut completely. Let me know if it’s not clear what I’m saying here and, I will try to illustrate.

I routinely use dark blue and black stock. So, the color should not be an issue.

I cut a lot of 110lb stock and, even use the Stardream regularly.

I mostly use set focus rather than setting material height. If you are setting manually and not accounting for the thickness of the mat, that could definitely make it not cut through consistently.

Another thing that is worth trying: clean your optics. I am noticing a significant difference in cutting through with freshly-cleaned optics vs after running even a few jobs.

If you want to share your design, I might be able to make specific suggestions.

Hi
Thanks so much - with your help and a few modifications I found a setting that is cutting really well. In one of your posts I saw you mentioned trying 375/70 and it worked. I cleaned my mat with alcohol and that made a big difference as well. Lenses cleaned as well earlier. There are a few spots where I think the art was just too complex and I was having to help the negative space pieces out, so I’m going in and modifying the vector art which should eliminate that issue.

I guess I always just hope there are settings for non proofgrade materials that work on a consistent basis but I guess there is always going to be some trial and error.

I appreciate you taking the time to help me out today!

1 Like

Here’s the most recent print…



4 Likes

Looks great!

Generally that’s true. Sometimes you’ll get away with some settings because they’re good enough but that’s because they’re overpowered or slower than optimum by and large. But like most things perfect settings aren’t usually needed - just as long as they cut out do you really care if the cut edge is “toast” colored or “dark toast”? :slightly_smiling_face:

I do a lot of spirals. Spirals, especially small ones, have tended to exhibit the sort of cut-through problem you described. The slightly-offset double-cut approach has worked well for me on some of the more challenging ones.

I know it’s a lot of work when you are doing 168 cards but, you can often rescue some of those that have a few issue with a sharp craft knife. If you are gentle, the partial cut will guide you along and, it won’t be noticeable. I use a translucent self-healing cutting mat on top of a light panel so I can see the problem spots easily.

1 Like