Hi
I am trying to cut on 1/8" mahogany plywood (full power, speed 112) but file name o-14000 cut perfectly but BIG ISLAND-2000, its burned and not even cutout.
is there anything wrong with a file? I didnt make this file, a designer made this and I am still learning inkscape so i dont know if its different. If there is something different I will ask the designer to fix it.
please help. I have been working on this project and try and try few days now.
thank you in advance!
,
There was a bit of weirdness that is fixed here,
Did you clean the lenses between the two of them by any chance? And can you post a photo of what you are talking about?
Looking at the file I can understand. I had to use Object to path on three open vectors (each in a different group) and putting them together to make it normal,
Yeah but if he is cutting that should not really matter unless you are doing an engrave imo. Was thinking more that the lens may have been placed upside down during a cleaning or something along those lines from the “it’s burned and not even cutout.” part, seems to be one of the more common things that cause that. Also why i was hoping to see a photo of what is being described.
hi guys thank you very much for response. i attached pictures.
Lens clean etc, may be but after I cut one piece perfectly and next didn’t so if some problem with lens I don’t think I could cut one perfect cut.
the file you fixed (file name 14000) was okay. I have problem with BIG-IS file. thank you for taking time, I appreciate!
I fixed the one you posted. Downloaded it gets a long string of numbers rather than the original name. Looking at the photo the smoke of cutting is igniting to a flame, and when that happens it does not cut near as deep. So the problem is the flame.
The usual cause of that flame is insufficient air movement from the head fan that moves the smoke away fast enough to keep it from igniting. The smoke trails give many clues. If they are rare and long the material itself might be extra flammable and it would be too slow a cut. Zebrawood and some things called mahogany are very prone to this.
Another cause is obstructions of air movement. If there is even a horizontal edge it can disrupt airflow and allow the flame to catch, but bed pins or other obstructions behind the cuts can do this as well. Of course, if the fan is obstructed or dirty the air movement will be less than optimal as well.
The thing that caused me so much grief until I discovered it to be a problem was magnets. Any strong field can disrupt fast-moving electronics, especially the spinning fan causing it to slow or stop due to the presence of the field.
If you are watching the cut and see the smoke catch fire know that the cut will be less than otherwise and possibly a change of settings or a second pass without moving the work will get the cut to work out until you can chase down why the flame in the smoke is happening.
Thank you very much for your information.
Actually they are Mahogany. and YES there is fire. Not sure the how i can move the smoke fast enough but i will clean fan and try something. Also I am looking for plywood not mahogany, again thank you very much for your valuable information.!!
If there is fire at all like that you will not be cutting, and you cannot move the air fast enough. In trying to get the job out at all I made many passes fast enough, and down power to not give it a chance for fire and even getting it wet (not sopping) with a wet cloth between cuts, but mostly I have not tried cutting on that piece again. I have several other pieces from different sources that cut just fine.
Mahogany is tough. One of the toughest woods I’ve worked with on the laser, which is ironic because it’s pretty wonderful to work with on traditional woodworking tools. There are also lots of different kinds of mahogany, so doing a material test will be very helpful. Have you seen the material test method from @evansd2 ? I was able to get pretty good results cutting 1/4" African Mahogany on a basic with Full power, 150 speed, 2 passes. Usually I needed to do a third pass, focused lower down (you manually enter the focus height) at Full power, 300 speed. Also, I was doing some smaller areas, so I would pause the machine for a bit between the passes.
No kidding about lots of types of mahogany. I find my mahogany to be very easy to cut, like maple and cherry. Very civilized stuff, engraves nice and dark.
Here’s the cut test link:
Thanks! I was too lazy to go grab the link 
Where is your mahogany from?
Hmm, ocooch was my last batch I think, but I’ve also gotten it from Green Valley Wood products.
I’m working in 1/8" if that matters, but yeah mine cuts really easily and consistently and engraves really dark.
Here’s an example project.
and hmm I made a dice tower too, where is that? Here we go:
(sorry for the threadjack, I’ll stop now)
Thank you very very much!
I just got glowforge a month ago, still trying to figure out so thank you for advice!
when I did 2 passed they cut slightly different pass they cut 
(i didn’t not even open the cover but they didn’t cut same line)
by the way, mahogany is only one plywood i can get 1/4 or 1/8 in my area, I had no clue mahogany is hard to cut. I am gonna find other wood.
I will try to find other plywood.
Thank you very much for your help!
I didn’t realize it was plywood. If plywood, then it is likely the consistency of plywood; most plywood has voids, areas of glue, etc. so if it’s not a higher end/consistent plywood, you will run into issues.
The passes should cut in exactly the same place if the material hasn’t moved and you haven’t moved the linework in the GFUI. Are you using holdown pins to keep the material in place? Also, you can make it do up to 3 passes in the same operation using the cut settings. This should absolutely cut in the same exact place.
yes, i am realizing it.
how do you “pin” the wood to not moving??
Cut these out of whatever material you have (draftboard is cheap and good if you have it) 
