Just made it public on tinkercad.
Right now it is set up for doing all the steps in the link I posted above on a 1 inch cube. The smaller piece is for doing the corners in the last step but I have a feeling its not going to work and those are still going to need to be done by hand.
I would say that even being super careful you are going to have trouble with a 3D printed plastic jig.
Wood saws have a set on the teeth which means the teeth extend out beyond the sides of the blade. You will pretty quickly wear away those plastic slots. That is why your miter saw has those fancy roller things.
What about a set of jigs to hold the die in the saw at the correct angles? That way you could clamp the jig to your miter saw.
Or maybe make a meta jig which lets you use the plastic once to cut slots in a hardwood jig?
That is what I was thinking previously. The problem I was having is that my current saw is WAY too big to do such a small job. If I could find a smaller setup with fine adjustment I would gladly use that!
Pure hand tool pornography!
going on 4 years, still has really good cut surface. But I only use it maybe 4-5 times a year for maybe 10-15 cuts on small hardwood pieces.
Agreed, but It really just depends on how many of these you want to make. you don’t want to spend several hours fabricating jigs for a couple rounds of parts. If you just want to make a couple sets of dice for poops and grins a quick fix will get you through. but, if you plan on putting them on etsy or a local shop with any kind of repeatability you definitely want to make a solid fixture with rollers and metal supports.
Right now I want to do a run of just a few. If I absolutely hate the process I will probably not do it again. If I enjoy it I will most likely come up with better system. I know I will have to do that for the last handful of cuts on the dice anyways.
The japanese-style saws, at least some of them, don’t have a set on their teeth. Just insane sharpening and hardening (which makes the blades mostly disposable except in the hands of a master or a special machine). Western handsaws have a set in part because the teeth aren’t that sharp and the steel not that hard, and in part because the push motion is much more conducive to binding. (When I lived in new york I used to visit Garrett Wade; not as pretty in person but still pretty darn cool.)
If I were doing this, I would likely 3d-print a holder for the stock in its several stages of shaping and then use some kind of blade or abrasive or both. With a little thought you should be able to make a fixture for the blade/abrasive as well, so that only the wood ever got reduced.
All too true, especially the insane sharpening! @Dunfee , if you get one of these saws I would recommend taping your fingers or getting a pair of those kevlar safety gloves. While I never required stitches, my fingers were pretty cut up until I learned how to use one properly. A good one will last a long time, unless you hit hidden staples in reclaimed wood. 
3D Printed plastic fixtures will be fine, with the right type of saw such as a Japanese Ryoba or a “razorsaw”:
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/hand-saw-series-flush-trim-saws/
These are designed to trim dowel joints flush without scratching up the surrounding wood.
We have one in the shop with a 0.3mm kerf. I feel like my fingers are going to bleed when I look at it wrong.
I should have looked at my settings a little closer when I printed this.
You’re right. I did have trouble with the plastic jig. I took it off the printer and accidentally applied too much pressure to one of the walls of the box and it snapped along the print line.
Thicker fill is needed! Maybe even 100%. My default for general printing is 20%
20.905 degrees is what I got after looking at the wiki page 
That’s a “facet-nating” site…
Here is a good how to video on the Platonic solids in wood.
This is super cool!
After my failure with a 3D prinited jig I’m looking at other options.
I was thinking if I had a scroll saw with a guide that I could set it would be perfect. Those are a little harder to come across.
The saws* seem elegant but look like tons of work. I like @paulw’s approach of making jigs and then using something like a belt sander with a fixture and stops to only sand down the part you want at that time.
Otherwise, a scroll saw or bandsaw with a guide does sound pretty good. You could use a piece of aluminum extrusion as the guide (adafruit, Misumi). Good luck!
Edit: * hand saws