Yellowing around cuts

Awesome. I’m used to working with a cnc so I know every machine has it’s only little quirks so I wasn’t super worried about it but I did try sanding which is what Im used to doing and it kind of messed up the engraving because I wasn’t careful. I never thought about just wiping it off lol.


Seconding masking, it’s the quickest and cleanest result!


In some cases, a quick sanding is faster than the process of masking. It’s a little situational. Everyone’s got his or her own workflow, but if I have a single small part, I just cut it and sand it after rather than busting out a 12" masking roll.


I put my peeled off masking in a little desktop trashcan because I’m too lazy to go to the big outside trashcan every day. :face_with_hand_over_mouth: For small parts there’s always a piece in there that’s useful, masking can be used again if it’s not too wrinkled. The peel offs are also handy for picking up tiny little cuts pieces out of the Glowforge. :smiley:

1 Like

Thrift store vacuum cleaner. You will thank me!

Or wait, if the tiny pieces are what you want, then yes, carry on. I use blue painters tape or scotch tape as needed to just yoink the parts out.

1 Like

Oh I’ve got a Dyson and an assortment of shop vacs :laughing: You’re right - the cleaning is not the issue, I’ve been cutting tons of tiny little pieces.

1 Like

You might like my tape sandwich method:

Saves me a ton of time with peeling. Like 90-95%. Game changer, for sure.


I saw that post, quite brilliant!


Particularly with poplar and birch if you have surface discoloration; I have found that soaking in bleach can be very effective in removing staining. Such soaking in many materials and open woods warping can be a real problem. Under such circumstances, if the piece is clamped flat (or to a desired curve) and let dry completely it will hold that.

1 Like

I recently stumbled on the exact size and shape of scraps to consistently lodge themselves in the honeycomb openings and refuse to fall through or be vacuumed out, while leaving just enough protruding to disrupt the surface without being quite enough to grasp and remove. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


Yeah I get that a lot.

I push them down with a blunted nail, and periodically shake the tray out.

1 Like

I have found the shop vac very good for that sort of issues, as long as they are not physically jammed in there like when the honeycomb pins break off.

They jammed themselves in very effectively. I ended up pushing them through, but even that took a little effort!

What type of masking are you using?

I cannot get duct tape, gorilla tape, extra sticky masking tape etc to pull Up the masking to save my life! I use a medium tack paper masking from amazon. I press it on the ply wood as lightly as I can but it still won’t come off.
Cutting a puzzle so I end up with a couple hundred pieces and cannot peel each off by hand.
Cutting in rows won’t work for me.
The plastic razor method also did not work.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Here you go.

Check #2:

And then:

As for sticking too well, masking sticks better the smoother your surface is. If you’ve got a very smooth material you might want to try low tack masking, not medium.

1 Like

Thanks Evansd2 but the sandwich method does not work for me. The blue tape does not pick up the masking, any which way I try.
What transfer paper specifically to you use? And what blue tape?
I think my transfer tape is too sticky.

See above, check #2, I talk about what masking I use. That was the whole reason I took the time to include it.

As for blue painters tape I use standard 3m ~3" wide painters tape.

I use a tool to press the blue tape down thoroughly and get great results. Again, though, if I were masking very smooth wood or plexi the blue tape wouldn’t stick well enough to do the job.

1 Like

I read through your post twice now and I cannot see any info on what type of transfer tape you use. Not the blue tape, the white masking.
Would you mind just spelling it out for me since I cannot seem to see what you are talking about?

Section #2, I mention perfectear plus. It points to this post, where that and other brands are discussed:

Most of the paper brands are pretty similar.

Anyway, that’s the brand, and I get it from sign warehouse.


Thank you!! I appreciate that. Super helpful :slight_smile: