Yes, another custom WLED lamp. I had done a torus birdhouse earlier this year and thought the shape could make a pretty unique lamp. This one’s been in the works for a few months, but I require assistance assembling these projects. Unfortunately the sections didn’t come together perfectly, so I still need to fix a gap in the ring. I thought about posting this “mostly” finished shaped just to get your opinions on how to resolve it. Anyway, this torus is 15 sections, each with 11 faces totaling 165 individually addressable pixel LED lights. The torus sections were 3D printed using white PLA on a Bambu X1-C. I’m using a WLED Slim LED Strip Controller from Anthom with an additional 5V board for power injection. The faces are laser cut 1/8" Iridescent Molten Textured Acrylic from Houston acrylic.
Design:
Exported from Stella4D and customized in Fusion 360.
So, the gap is too big to just force it together. My initial thought was to leave outside on a really hot day to get the PLA plastic a bit more mailable. I also thought of just putting it in the oven at a low temp to get it a bit flexible. I also thought of using a ratchet strap to put around the outside and slowly ratchet it together. Thoughts???
Overall, it’s a pretty cool lamp, and excited to see how it lights up at night.
With the right code, this could be a colorspace visualization tool.
I don’t have any clever thoughts on the gap. Frustrating! Applying heat, I would be concerned about it deforming under is own weight. There is probably some exact amount of heat application that would let you close the gap without weight deformation.
WOW! Love it. I would experiment on some of the material used to make the frame (PLA) and see if it becomes more malleable when left in the hot sun for a while. If so, I would try to slowly ratchet it together. I would be concerned about putting the lamp in even a low oven with all the wiring and covers. I have “slumped” acrylic, but I certainly am not an expert, just my 2 cents.
Technically yes, but where the Gap is doesn’t necessarily have a splice in the wiring. So changing that piece out with something that fits better would require some rewiring. It’s a great idea, but what I might do is count the LEDs to know where there’s an actual break in the wiring between LED strips and break that part up. Making a new piece would probably also require recutting face pieces as they wouldn’t be the same size if the wedge was different. Definitely something to think about, but I’ll probably try heating it and ratcheting it first.
The wires are installed serially in a sequential pattern around each plastic piece. This also ensures that the wled light sequences work correctly, especially using segments. To remove one of those pieces and replace it with something else would require you to cut the wires. Also, the internal diameter of each piece is big enough for the wires, but you wouldn’t be able to get your hand in there there to run a separate wire up to the point where it needed to be spliced. We had to add the pixel lights to each segment as we went knowing that we wouldn’t be able to get back to that section after it was glued together. Something to try to solve for a future design. Maybe to have shorter wire segments and removable segments.
My first thought, besides “Wow!” was to just move that gap to the bottom so you don’t pay as much attention to it there. Second thought was, “Wow! I can’t imagine figuring out all that wiring.” To see it in the assembly process really shows how intricate your work is. Absolutely stunning.
I’d start with that - in the oven at 100F (or Proof setting if you have one) or lowest temp settable (usually 150 or 175). With a ratchet strap tightening it a clack every few hours. Then once closed, glue the faces together & clamp together with the ratchet strap while it cures.
Or just print a slice that will fill in the gap (potentially less probability of something bad happening due to heating it). More work to calculate what you’d need in order to get the right piece but virtually foolproof.
Stunning as usual! When doing all the cylindrical lamps I made, I had a great deal of trouble due to the humidity of the wood making it over 1/4” shorter in a day when I thought it was dry. However, once glue had everything fixed in place, that ceased to be a problem.
Your situation is diferent, but one thing remains, if you can close it cold the stress will be spread evenly, but if softened, all the change will be taken up in the most softened place, making a bigger mess. Even if the difference is extremely small.
Mesmerising! That wormhole sequence could be the intro to a sci-fi movie someday. (Or the closing scene, as in St Elsewhere.) Im impressed by your organization. I can’t do anything without making a mess.
