I’m not sure I understand what you’re saying, sorry. But…
Any system for two-sided cutting that relies on the camera image is likely doomed to failure. The geometry of the camera setup means that even slight errors in the orientation of the camera or the thickness of the material will translate in to position offsets (where the laser cuts will not be where the GFUI shows the cut will occur). Each time you open and close the cover of the GF you change the position of the camera slightly. You probably don’t get the crumb tray back in exactly the same spot each time, either. And the material you’re cutting might not be completely flat or have true uniform thickness (assuming you measured it to confirm how thick it was). All these things contribute to changing the “registration” between the camera’s image and the real position under the laser head. So if you’re doing things with the GF that rely on camera registration being accurate you’ll end up with inconsistent results at best.
I’m new at Laser Cutting, but I’ve been a hobby machinist for many years so the solution came pretty easy to me. The good news is, the jig does not need to have any connection to the image. The bad news (which isn’t really that bad) is that you have to make a jig each time you put new material in the laser cutter. And if you’re going to put something in the GF for etching or engraving, you have to make a jig to be sure what you etch/engrave will be lined up properly even if you never look at the camera.
The process is simple. Enclose your artwork in a vector box outline, and include both the front and back side art and any cuts required to define the final outline of the part. Tack or tape the material to be cut to the crumb tray so it can’t move. Load your artwork in the GFUI and set the back side art and any front-side cut required for the outline to “ignore”. Do the front art and cut the enclosing box outline. Open the GF and flip over the piece inside the box outline. Then disable the front side art and the box outline. Then enable the back side art and the cut that defines the final outline of your part. Cut it. When you’re done, the part should be perfectly aligned front/back.
With this method there is absolutely no dependency on the camera image. The only thing you use the camera for is to be sure you’re somewhere inside the workpiece before you start cutting anything. I know my camera is fairly close, but I basically leave 1/2" margin to any edge just in case.