Probably not something we can do because while I don’t think he said he did so, I believe he turned off his air assist for the paint pass. BUT… There’s some rather creative people in here that might be able to figure something out to divert the fan, or turn it off without triggering the air assist fan error…
For those of us who are pretty terrible detail painters this seems fabulous! Now. How expensive is powder coating paint?
Link from the video to his $28 sample pack (which is currently back-ordered): https://www.sonomalaserengraving.com/product-page/powder-coat-paint-sample-pack-from-laser-engraving-911
and just one example - these run $9-$12 for a 1lb bucket! That’s a lot of paint
I was thinking that if there was a way to remove the paint from the unpainted areas without pulling it from the engraved areas it would be real easy to just get a cheap toaster oven and use it to bake the paint (that’s a common way to cure powder coating) for an even better finish. Then you wouldn’t even have to worry about the air assist fan at all. On wood it might be a little difficult to get it off though. I might have to do a few experiments of my own in that regard later. I just don’t have the time to dive into mad-scientisting things right now.
(edit… it may even be easy enough to leave some of the light powder on the substrate and sand it… something else to try…)
maybe mix the powder coat in a sticky water based solution (like they do with laser marking spray) and paint it onto the surface so the power assist fan doesn’t push the powder away.
Yep, I would like to see how it goes if you mix the powder into polyurethane clear finish.
i think you need something that washes off with water, I think poly is the wrong substrate.
It’s been almost 30 years since I worked with powder coating, but what we used was literally a powder suspended in a mild solvent. No idea what the solvent was but didn’t smell like acetone or alcohol. When sprayed on, it would wipe off where needed with a lint-free rag (microfiber wasn’t a thing back then) while fresh, or with the same rags dampened in gasoline (what we had in the shop) when dry.
I don’t know if current formulations are different, but based on my experience all those years ago, after lazing, a microfiber with a solvent should remove the non-cured stuff just fine.
Not much different than Cermark or Lasermark, I would think.
That sounds pretty awesome if we could figure that formula out.
It’s already been figured out. There’s a product video in the ‘previously’ thread linked above for
WELL… there we have it, the ability to ‘silk screen’ on a laser, who here has deep pockets?
170 bux per gallon isn’t so bad. A gallon would probably last me years.
Has anyone tried it with the powder? And turned the air assist off?