Hi Folks,
My brother in law (not that you need to know that) asked me if I could make him stencils to put his company name on his “stuff” ladders etc. Any thoughts on material? anyone do this before?
As always, Thank you!
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The forum is a gold mine.
https://community.glowforge.com/search?q=stencil%20material
A quick search is all you need.
Take a close look at threads that mention Mylar, that’s likely your best option.
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I recently made some stencils out of used manila folders. They will work for three or 4 applications before they need to be thrown away. If you want something more reusable, try mylar.
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Mylar huh, well ok. I never heard of it and I did search first and saw one of them but it looked flimsy. My mind was headed down the thick acrylic route. I will take a deeper look at it.
It needs to be reusable and tough for the environment it will be in 
One of these days something won’t be “brand new to me”
Thank you yet again folks!
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Yup, I’ve cut and used mylar as well and it holds up well. Much like the stencils you buy in the store…
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I have used Johnson Plastics Plus lucent. Smoke Rowmark’s Lucent Engraving Plastic
or Flex from Smokey Hill Design Flex Material Clear – Smokey Hill Designs
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I use legal size manila file folders cut in half at the fold with my Glowforge Basic set to 0.011 in thick with power 500 and speed 70. 
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I’ve used this as well and consider it the best for making dozens from one stencil.
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I would characterize mylar as flexible rather than flimsy, and its that flexibility that allows it to conform the objects being painted. YMMV of course.
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I agree, bad choice of word…
Thank you
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Checking those out now.
@dklgood Thanks for the link!
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I just used wide masking when I wanted to do a stencil to spray a design on a glass door so we and the animals could tell when the door was closed. The masking made it easy to place, do my paint, then remove and place in the next spot. I did let the paint dry somewhat before I removed the masking so I wouldn’t smudge the paint.
Because I was using a spray “frosting” paint, I used my 12" masking that I have to place on my boards. But if he’s doing ladders, etc., you don’t need that wide. You’ll want to do a cut just deep enough to cut through the masking, or use it on a scrap piece of wood, like if you were cutting a paper design. And you can cut as many as you need.
One advantage of the masking tape is the adherence so the edges stay cleaner.
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you might try painting them on both sides. could make them more durable. spraying appliance paint on them.
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Ordered the Mylar, will post the results
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I use the 10mil mylar.
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Got any pictures of it working? It might help @LaserCraftWoodWorks visualize
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Hi there, welcome to the forum!
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Apologies, I am still waiting for the “text”, but I am ready when I get it. I will post as soon as I make it. The Mylar is pretty cool, I got 5 sheets so I have more for the whatever…
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Finally, I have the secret intel Making them tomorrow.
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Did not work, the space for the stencil was to small. Good news, I was able to learn how to adjust that. Hopefully, I can cut them tomorrow.
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