When you first set up your top cut, and have everything highlighted, you will notice in the lower left corner a small object that when picked on brings up the precision placement widget, the upper set of which is the exact placement of what you have highlighted. That number is the most accurate for cutting, and as long as the location of the material is the same the precision placement will cut the same.
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I do all of the alignment in the design software. Superimpose the design of both sides on top of each other in different colors, with a third color for the cut.
Put the material in the machine and immobilize it so it can’t move. Engrave the first color and run the cut while the other color is ignored. Flip the item in the hole it was cut from, ignore the first color and the cut and engrave the other color. The registration will be perfect.
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This turned out to be an interesting experiment…
Trying out the speeds claimed for Amazon box cardboard I set out to cut this screen. Unfortunately, it did not cut all the way through on most of it and I had already moved it plus I was thinking the since most of the thickness was air I could just score the other side, and even if a bit off I could still remove the other bits. So I flipped the cardboard and quickly realized that the design was just a tiny bit less than perfectly symmetrical, so I had to flip that as well.
So after using the Set Focus I saw that I had not placed the cardboard back precisely, so I redid the SetFocus in the center and moved the screen image as close as I could manage. Not wanting to mess up the original cut I went too lite, so I redid the cut without set focus or anything even though the image showed way off.
While getting ready it did its own set focus and the image jumped to be on the ball, and I cut the design a third time. If you look very closely you can see some threads where the cut was a fraction of a millimeter off. It is a large and intricate design and in quite weak material so there was no way to bully the scrap to come loose, but only a vacuum hose that sucked akk the bits down as it passed over them.
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does anyone use the clips you can cut with GF to keep board in place? If not, what do you recommend using the board in place when removing the cut peaces.
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Many (most) of us use the honeycomb hold down pins.
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Does anyone not use those clips?!? 
Definitely cut yourself a bunch of these:
They’re super useful, and do wear out a bit.
Sometimes using masking tape and other things can be helpful too, but my primary is thoes hold down pins.
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Is the size of the honeycomb pin in the file attached accurate?
Yes, they can be tight, they need !/8"material. I have some from just over that that are hard to use. There is also a piece in the middle that will not allow the rest flex enough unless they are poked out.
so 0.636 in by 0.755 in is the size correct
I had to get one to measure 
mine is 0.99 x 0.83 x 0.31 which is too thick and I had to sand down all the corners of the “pin” part
Looking at another the cut size is the same but the material is 0.12 thick.
Okay so i cut the pins, i locked my material (Medium cherry) locked in place so i can do the double sided print in shop. it was impossible to take my circle cut out yo put it upside down to do identical print in the back. After so much struggle the material finally moved , and i saw that GF didn’t even cut the circle. I double checked the design and made sure it said cut. and it did. So I think the material they send is not 1/8 in thickness all around because i saw able to cut the same design in other areas of the material. Now my question is if there is a way to up the power of cut to make sure GF will cut through the material?
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Yes, you can easily increase the power or slow the speed to insure that your material cuts. Proofgrade materials, however, are guaranteed to cut if they are held flat to the honeycomb tray and your optics are clean.
Here is information regarding changing the speed/power settings: Working With Manual Mode – Glowforge
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I slowed down the speed and i get a fire warning. Should I ignore and observe the cutting process?
Nope. How much did you slow it down?
Success at last. from 189 to 180. I was slowing too much when I got fire warning
Hi @tshahoomian. I’m sorry to see that you ran into some issues with double-sided printing. It sounds like you’ve been getting some great advice from fellow Community members. Can you let me know if the suggestions were able to help resolve this? Let me know if you are running into any other trouble and I’ll be happy to help. Thank you!
Yes the community was very helpful.
Thank you for that quick response! I’m happy to hear the Community was able to help. I’ll go ahead and move this thread to the Everything Else section of the Community to keep the tread going in case you need any further advice from other members. Feel free to create a new thread if you run into any technical trouble and we’ll be happy to help. Happy printing!
The good thing about using the pins for strong hold-down is that if the piece does not lift up easily, then you can follow what I did above. I use a shopvac hose to lift the cut piece which is the easiest I know. If it has not cut through it will not lift, and can be cut again, If it has almost cut through and it leaves a mark you can do what I did and flip it over and just score that part. You do need a good Calibration to be real accurate.
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I used a needle and it popped right up. But I did slow down the speed so it cuts deeper
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