When it doesn’t, because either the holes don’t line up, or it turns out the blade guard angles away from the handle so your top layer has to be the longest of the three, or both, adjust and cut again! Koa cuts using PG Walnut Hardwood settings.
Once everything fits, and it’s going to work, glue it all together, return the pins, and start hammering…and hammering…and (you know, I could have gotten brass pins but nooooo it had to be steel because the originals were…). Oh yeah, and I don’t recommend hammering your hand.
Cool restoration job there. The alloy in that blade makes the tool worth the work.
Those cutting dics referenced, at that price the grit is likely plated on. If you overheat it, the grit will wipe right off. The holes in them will help dissipate the heat, but kept cool, diamond tools live a long time!
Diamond grit cutting tools for dry cutting have the grit brazed on, and are not that inexpensive, which is why you can tell how the tool was made for the price.
That Koa is beautiful, and a wonderful choice - besides being an upgrade worthy of the German metallurgy.
On a side note, notice the sparks in the video beginning? the number of points the spark decays to indicates the content of the alloy. High carbon steel sparks end in a bright almost white tiny ‘firework’ burst, while mild steel is a single orange spark. A quick spark test will help you determine if you are working with mild steel or another alloy.
nice work done my friend. i noticed that one side seems to have more layers then the other side or is it just a illusion from the camera? Other then that i have a lot of knives i need to do the same with. kidos to you my friend.