Yup! You just have to be sure the red dot of the rangefinder laser hits your material when the set focus routine runs. If it misses it’ll get the wrong idea.
You can also override focus height in the settings but that’s different.
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True, and that selection preselects the power/speed/LPI (engrave only)/# of passes.
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And dots vs 3d engrave and, (I think) importantly, camera preview thickness (though not the actual set focus).
Selecting a material when you have elevated the actual surface is a sure way to get inaccurate camera previews. Gotta use set focus.
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I always use "set focus*…
I irritates me that it then goes and does its own focus again when I hit print, but I reported it multiple times years ago and it went unchanged…
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If I use set focus, there is no auto focus afterwards when I hit print. This changed when set focus actually set focus - a few years ago.
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Does it every time for me. As soon as I hit print, it goes ahead and does a focus operation, every single time. Even with manual focus settings.
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Never does it for me.
The jobs start up super fast after I set focus.
It resets if you open your machine door though. Gotta set focus for every job.
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I must be on some “special” list, becuase it was the same with my last machine and the replacement. The moment I hit print, the head flys back to the center, does its little tap-tap-tap dance, then back to home. Had always been that way. My machine is in another room and so it’s usually done by the time I get there to hit the button, but I hear it.
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Same here, it always double-checks my work. No idea what it’s doing after that, re: power, focus.
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I sometimes forget to “Set Focus” first (or don’t bother because I am reusing the previous location) All it really does is show where the cut is going to land on the screen. Getting the birds-eye camera to give a proper image on the screen takes some very fancy math and is extremely dependent on the distance below the lid in fractions of a millimeter. That is the actual focus that is talked about. It will feed to the laser focus if not over-ridden, but it is mostly about aligning the image to the location on the material.
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Nice to know; I use to zero-in design or material placement. Accurate, and precise enough for my needs.
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As far as lid camera goes, the specs are for 1/4"/6mm anyway, and I pretty much get 1/3 of that across most of the printable area. My lid also closes positively. If there’s any doubt, I just run a finger along the edge of the lid along the side panels.
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