Not going to win any awards but was still cool to be able to do. I used the passthrough to make it easy to line things up, although if I inverted the print I found I could cram things in there enough, but didn’t want to do that. I taped the door panels together to make sure things lined up, and used PG medium clear acrylic settings even though this is some other extruded clear. The one on the left really shows the extrusion lines the one on the right seemed to be higher quality material (these were bought online pre-cut for the ikea lack enclosure I was building). Not hard stuff but if anyone has any questions reach out!
Very cool! These two projects have been on my TODO list but have not had time, that and IKEA is a once a year trip here. Been wanting to get a concrete block for the base of the unit and make an enclosure for awhile now. Do you use foam under the block?
These look very sharp, and I like the interior lighting.
Out of curiosity, what is the motivation for enclosing these? Are you trying to reduce noise, or fumes, or…?
I am planning to build an exhaust hood for some of my laser cutters.
Several motivating factors. Noise isn’t an issue really with the prusas especially once I put them on a neoprene layer on top of a 90lb concrete block.
- My basement is a 1924 dungeon that I’m slowly updating… its dusty.
- I print with ASA and other materials that need high ambient temperatures and draft control. The enclosure provides that.
- My basement gets pretty cold in the winter and this allows the heated bed raise the ambient temp for the printers.
That is my understanding. Stable ambient conditions while printing.
I’m using 24x24 concrete pavers from home depot, they are 90lbs each. I have closed cell like neoprene under the printers, but not under the block. The mk2.5 is near silent, the mk3s is total silent this way.
Ikea online ordering is super delayed with everything going on, I luckily but lacks 3-4 at a time since they are only $10. I’ve got 4 more coming at some point in June for other random projects. If you put the printer on top of a lack you’ll need some heavy blocks and foam or closed cell on both sides of the stone as the tables act like bullhorns. I have a mini CNC on one and it was crazy loud until I put a paver on it.
Wondering if the Glowforge would benefit from this? At the moment it sits on a foam pvc board but not good enough with acoustics to know if there is a superior way to go.
I am not sure you would be able to get a one piece slab the size of the GF that would be easily movable into the house. I have heard GF uses a massive calibrated stone slab to setup all the GF’s so there is some benefit but not sure for the general user.
What is loud about your GF? I have mine on a rolling workbench, the gantry/head moves aren’t loud at all, its the fan that makes the noise, no way to make that quiet unless you use an external inline fan.
I run both when cutting wood, but with Acrylic the Vivosun is good enough.
Absolutely LOVE that 3D printer! I got mine as the kit. Very quiet, even when not set for “stealth mode”.
I have two LACK tables sitting in the corner for over a year waiting for me to find the right place to get the acrylic and print the hardware.
This is where I got mine. You can print the parts in a day. https://www.printedsolid.com/products/acrylic-sheets-for-prusa-lack-enclosure
Anyone with a MMU2S used the LACK enclosure? Just wondering if that works with the added height.
Edit: My memory was refreshed you have to cut out the inside of the table top.
I was going to build the v2, I even have the glass, but I canceled my MMU2s order having flashbacks from trying the very first MMU and basically having it ruin the printer. Eventually I’ll do it
Well, now I have a couple of sheets of acrylic sitting next to my tables. One step closer!
I was having problems with my prints. I was close to the end of a spool and thought it was old filament. Order a new spool and still no good. It wasn’t extruding. I changed the nozzle and still had problems. Looked at the feed motor toothed wheel and it looked like it was slipping I was able to force the filament and worked. So I got a small brush and cleaned the gunk out of teeth and still slipping. Tonight I turned on all the lights and saw the spring arm tension wheel opposite of the motorized one had a crack in black plastic! So I am ordering a metal replacement now.
@bwente: What kind of 3D printer are you having problems with?
It is an Ender 3. The new part will be here tomorrow. So I will have something “fun” to do this weekend.