Hi folks, it’s been quite some time since I’ve posted/asked a question… I’m trying to find a decent supplier of 1/8 inch front surface acrylic so I can cut some mirrors… anyone have suggestions? Needs to be front surface as it’s reflecting an oscilloscope image and needs to have high reflectivity without ghosting… thanks all!
Nick
Generally first surface mirrors are also two-way mirrors in acrylic. I looked into these a while ago because I wanted first surface mirrors as well, but I didn’t want the two-way because they have such a low transmission. Let me see if I can dig up what I found.
I found these…
…but they’re too thin at 1.5mm. I could glue them to another piece of acrylic, but it would be easier to just have it one and done as it were…
Glue them to wood first then just cut once?
That’s probably what I’ll end up doing if I can’t find the pukka thickness… thx!
Whilst I’m here and you are a fountain of knowledge, outside of Smokey Hill Designs and Trotec, do you know of anyone else who sells 1/4 inch thick acrylic black on clear for reverse lasering?
Cheers,
Nick
Everyone does if you are willing to spray paint… you can paint any clear acrylic and then engrave the paint off.
I do that all the time. Local hardware store sells lexan in very thin sheets for picture frames. I make labels/tags by painting the desired color, reverse-engraving the design, then spraying or brusging the “fill”. If they’re not going to be attached to something (i.e. spice jar labels vs. a token/medallion), I’ll finish up with a neutral coat of color to finish it off BEFORE cutting the final shape - so you have nice clean edges.
Thanks! I have tried spray painting clear acrylic sheets (on one side) and had problems with peeling… using spray paints that were allegedly good for plastics (Rustoleum). Any tips?
This is why I was looking for the Front Surface Mirror in the first place (we wandered off topic…my fault!). Not the best picture, but you can see the cathode ray tube reflection has ghosting… and yes, it’s another clock… 
I’ve never even bothered to pay attention. Looking at my shelf of spray paints, I’ve got every conceivable brand including generics from places from WalMart. I’ve never experienced what you describe.
The key to success with rattle-can paint is to apply multiple light coats, letting each dry. I’ve been using them for decades and for simple laser stuff, I generally do a “dust” coat, come back in a few minutes and repeat, then after that’s dry, apply a heavier coat or two.
It’s also good to realize light colors often need a backing coat of silver or similar.
Many thanks, maybe I was just being impatient… I’ll give it another go with the multiple light coats.
Cheers!
Nick
